To Essaouira
MOROCCOWith a laid-back king loosening the bonds of tradition and bringing party-lovers back to Morocco, the windswept fishing port of Essaouira, long a favourite refuge for surfers and backpackers, is netting a new kind of guest.
Where To Stay
LA MAISON DES ARTISTES
19 rue Laàlouj, Skala du Port, Essaouira(00 212 524 47 57 99)
An airy riad that feels more like a friend's home than a hotel. Rooms are stylishly decorated with local finds, but cosy and not overly designed. The restaurant serves great Berber food. Price rating: 1/5
L'HEURE BLEUE PALAIS
2 rue Ibn Batouta, Bab Marrakech, Essaouira(00 212 524 78 34 34)
Built in the 19th century as a palace for the city governor, this grand old Relais & Châteaux property feels more like a private members' club than a hotel.
Bedrooms are discreetly furnished, but it's the suave common rooms - bar, library, billiard room - that make this elegant hideaway seem like a colonial home from home. The rooftop pool is a sunlit sanctuary above the old town, and the leafy courtyard is a wonderful place to read or snooze. Head chef Ahmed Handour gives a fresh twist to Moroccan staples, and the hammam will give you a bracing massage and scrub down; but it's the service that sets this place apart. French director François Laustriat is passionate about his adopted home, and his team provide an insider's introduction to the city. Price rating: 5/5
RIAD CASA LILA
94 rue Medel el Qorry, Bab Marrakech, Essaouira(00 212 524 47 55 45)
Run by a young French couple with a passion for Essaouira, Casa Lila's big, elegant rooms are decorated with contemporary local furniture and fabrics. A delicious Moroccan breakfast is served on the roof terrace. Price rating: 2/5
SOFITEL THALASSA MOGADOR
Boulevard Mohammed V, Essaouira(00 212 524 47 90 00)
This recently built resort hotel sits just outside the medina. It has a nice pool, a large spa and several restaurants. Just across the road from a private beach, it is the obvious choice for families who want to be close to the beach but within walking distance of town. Price rating: 2/5
VILLA MAROC
10 rue Abdellah Ben Yassine, Essaouira(00 212 524 47 61 47)
Morocco's first riad hotel originally catered to surfers but has become a little more serious lately, although it remains a charming, relaxing place to stay. All white and electric blue, with a fabulous roof terrace and rooms spread over three houses, it also has a small spa. Price rating: 1/5
VILLA DE L'O
3 rue Mohamed Ben Messaoud, Essaouira (00 212 524 47 63 75)
Housed in an 18th century building beside the ramparts of the Kasbah, this 12-room riad has been converted into an idiosyncratic boutique hotel by two French sisters who clearly share a keen sense of fun and a sharp artistic eye. The communal spaces are tastefully decorated with sepia photos of the harbour, but the quirky bedrooms are the pièce de résistance. Ask for the Opium Room, with its sunken bath and marvellous beachside views.
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