Medina of Marrakesh

Marrakesh remained a political, economic and cultural centre for a long period. Its influence was felt throughout the western Muslim world, from North Africa to Andalusia. It has several impressive monuments dating from that period: the Koutoubiya Mosque, the Kasbah, the battlements, monumental doors, gardens, etc. Later architectural jewels include the Bandiâ Palace, the Ben Youssef Madrasa, the Saadian Tombs, several great residences and Place Jamaâ El Fna, a veritable open-air theatre.

Founded in 1070-1072 by the Almoravids (1056-1147), capital of the Almohads (1147-1269), Marrakesh was, for a long time, a major political, economic and cultural centre of the western Muslim world, reigning in North Africa and Andalusia. Vast monuments dating back to that period: Koutoubia Mosque, with the matchless minaret of 77 metres, an essential monument of Muslim architecture, is one of the important landmarks of the urban landscape and the symbol of the City, the Kasbah, ramparts, monumental gates and gardens. Later, the town welcomed other marvels, such as the Badiâ Palace, the Ben Youssef merdersa, les Saâdians tombs,  Bahia Palace and large residences. Jamaâ El Fna Square, inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage, is a true open-air theatre that always amazes visitors. Due to its still protected, original and well conserved conception, its construction materials and decoration in constant use, and its natural environment (notably the Gardens of Aguedal, Ménara and the Palm Grove (Palmeraie) the plantation of which is attributed to the Almoravids), the Medina of Marrakesh possesses all its initial components both cultural and natural that illustrate its Outstanding Universal Value.
Criterion (i): Marrakesh contains an impressive number of masterpieces of architecture and art (ramparts and monumental gates, Koutoubia Mosque, Saâdians tombs, ruins of the Badiâ Palace, Bahia Palace, Ménara water feature and pavilion) each one of which could justify, alone, a recognition of Outstanding Universal Value.
Criterion (ii): The capital of the Almoravids and the Almohads has played a decisive role in medieval urban development.  Capital of the Merinids, Fès Jedid (the New town), integral part of the Medina of Fez, inscribed in 1981 on the World Heritage List, is an adaptation of the earlier urban model of Marrakesh.
Criterion (iv): Marrakesh, which gave its name to the Moroccan empire, is a completed example of a major Islamic capital of the western Mediterranean.
Criterion (v): In the 700 hectares of the Medina, the ancient habitat, rendered vulnerable due to demographic change, represents an outstanding example of a living historic town with its tangle of lanes, its houses, souks, fondouks, artisanal activities and traditional trades.
Integrity (2009)
The boundary of the property inscribed on the World Heritage List is correctly defined by the original ramparts that enclose all the requisite architectural and urban attributes for recognition of its Outstanding Universal Value.  A revision of these boundaries is envisaged for increased protection of the surroundings of the property.
Nevertheless, the integrity of the property is vulnerable due to pressure from urban development, uncontrolled alterations to upper floors and construction materials of the houses, the abandonment of the Khettaras (underground drainage galleries) and exploitation of the palm groves.
Authenticity (2009)
The ramparts, the Koutoubia Mosque, the kasbah, the Saâdians tombs, the ruins of Badiâ Palace, Menara water feature and pavilion, are examples of many monuments that clearly reflect the Outstanding Universal Value of the property. The authenticity of the inner urban structure and of the monuments remains intact.  It is ensured by qualified workmanship carrying out restorations in accordance with standards in force. Reconstruction and redevelopment work carried out in the heart of the historic centre generally respects the original volume and style. The use of traditional materials in these restoration operations has tremendously revived the artisanal trades linked to construction (Zellige, lime plaster (tadallakt), painted and sculpted wood, plastering, wrought ironwork, cabinetmaking, etc.) in addition to trades linked to furnishing and decoration.
Protection and management requirements (2009)
Protection measures are essentially related to different laws for the listing of historic monuments and sites, in particular Law 22-80 concerning heritage. In addition to this legislation, each of the more important monuments of the Medina of Marrakesh is protected by specific regulatory texts. Over and above the local services that are involved with the protection of the Medina, the Regional Inspection for Historic Monuments and Sites (attached to the Ministry for Culture) is specifically responsible for the management, restoration, maintenance and conservation of the historic monuments on the one hand, and on the other, the examination of requests for building and development permits and the control of building sites in the Medina, thus constituting a guarantee for a sustainable protection of the site.
The Architectural Charter of the Medina of Marrakesh, developed by the Urban Agency of Marrakesh in cooperation with the Regional Inspection for Historic Monuments and Sites, comprises a management toolfor the safeguarding of the architectural, urban and landscape heritage of the Medina. It will be applied through the establishment of a specific advisory structure. A convention for the implementation of this Charter was signed on 11 November 2008 between the concerned partners.
Long Description

The capital of the Almoravids and the Almohads played a decisive role in the development of medieval planning. Marrakesh (which gave its name to the Moroccan Empire) is the textbook example of a large Islamic capital in the Western world. With its maze of narrow streets, houses, souks (markets), traditional crafts and trade activities, and its medina, this ancient settlement is an outstanding example of a vibrant historic city.
Marrakesh was founded in 1071-72 by Youssef ben Tachfin on the site of the camp where Abou Bekr had left him in charge. From that point forward, Marrakesh was no longer an occasional stopping place for the Almoravids. It became the true capital of these conquering nomads who succeeded in stretching their empire from the Sahara to the Ebro and from the Atlantic to Kabylia.
The original layout of the medina dates back to the Almoravid period from which there still remain various monumental vestiges (ruins of the so-called Abou Bekr Kasbah, Youssef ben Tachfin Mosque and Ali ben Youssef Palace, not far from the Koutoubia, the pool and the 'Koubba' of Ali ben Youssef Mosque which were discovered in 1955, Bab Aylan gate, etc.). In essence it is an adaptation of the older urban model of Marrakesh.
The walls of the medina were built in 1126-27 following the order given by Ali ben Youssef. The planting of the palm groves, which at the present still cover a surface area of roughly 13,000 ha to the east of the city, has also been credited to the Almoravids. When in 1147 this dynasty bowed to the attacks of the Almohads led by Abdel Mou'men, the task of purification that was carried out did not spare the monuments which, for the most part, were destroyed by the victors. Nevertheless Marrakesh remained the capital. Under the Almohad rulers (1147-1269), Marrakesh experienced new and unprecedented prosperity.
Between 1147 and 1158, Abd el Mou'men had the Koutoubia Mosque built upon the ruins of the Almoravid foundations. Its incomparable minaret, key monument of Muslim architecture, is one of the major features of the cityscape and is the actual symbol of the city. The ruler's successors, Abou Yacoub Youssef and especially Yacoub el Mansour, were the ones who truly renovated the capital. They built new quarters, extended the city wall, fortified the Kasbah (1185-90) which was a prolongation of the city to the south with its own ramparts and gates (Bab Agnaou, Bab Robb), its mosque, palace, market, hospital, parade-ground and gardens. These leaders strengthened their control over their domains by planting crops (Menara to the west) and by civil engineering achievements, the best known of which are the Tensift Bridge and the kettara network in the palm groves.


The decline of Marrakesh, which began during the conquest of the city by the Merinids in 1269, never went beyond the point of no return, as is illustrated by a number of non-negligible constructions (Ben Salih Mosque and minaret, not long after 1321). The rebirth of the capital under the Saadian rulers (1510-1669) led to a new blossoming of the arts, as borne out by the ruins of the El Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs, whose precious architecture is isolated from the rest of the Kasbah by a wall. Some of the elements making up these refined and sumptuous constructions came from afar, such as the marble columns from Carrara which Montaigne observed being cut in Tuscany 'for the king of Morocco in Berberia'. Also dating back to the Saadian period is the restoration of the Ben Youssef Madrasa and the building of several fountains decorated with gypsum work and woodwork (Mouassine, Chrob ou Chouf and Bab Doukkala Fountains).
Under the reign of the Alawite dynasty, Marrakesh, the temporary capital, was graced with a new mosque, madrasas, palaces and residences harmoniously integrated into the homogeneous unit of the old town, which was surrounded by 10 km of clay and lime and beaten-cob ramparts. Beyond the walls were the great traditional areas of greenery: the palm groves, the Menara and, to the south, the Agdal gardens that were redesigned by Moulay Abd er Rahman (1822-59).

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marrakech medina


The people of the Medina have always ridden their motorbikes in the Medina it has always been their right to do so but if the authorities wish to encourage more and more tourists to visit the Medina,something is going to have to be done as it is becoming unbearable for older visitors and young alike. Infact shopkeepers in the Derb Debbachi and the souk Semmarine have put up no entry signs for motor cycles. More motorbike riders are now dismounting and walking with their motor bikes through crowded areas. It is a gradual process of adaption but it definitely needs to speed up.

The other aspect is one of the health: the exhaust fumes are another disincentive to visit the Medina as they linger in the streets and many Marrkechis' suffer from bronchitis and breathing conditions and the cold air from the Atlas Mountains traps the vapours so that they linger. Marrakech hasn't it seems woken up to the need for clean air

Too often now international travel writers write about the hassle of Marrakech Medina and recommend escaping to the smaller souks of Essaouira and the weekly markets outside Marrakech. The aggressive selling techniques of shop and stall owners may have suited an earlier generation when there were fewer tourists coming to Marrakech but not everyone wants to bargain and being grabbed by the arm is often a severe deterrent. It is actually impossible to look in a shop window without being assailed by the owner or his assistant in the Medina.

Marrakech's Mayor, Fatima Zahra Mansouri, has spoken of the need to preserve the rights and freedoms of the people of the Medina against the demands of the tourism industry and this is understandable but tourism is the main business of Marrakech and as has been evident over the last year, if tourists do not visit the Medina the city as a whole suffers economically. Visitors to the Medina should be allowed to walk in reasonable comfort and security.

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PUBLIC HAREM in marrakech


PUBLIC HAREM in marrakech


Riding a Moorish-Moroccan wave, young designers are modernizing Old World styles with contemporary Western touches. You’ll find many of their boutiques hidden in the Medina. Start at Original Design (231 Rue Riad Zitoun, Jedid; 212-24-38-22-76), where Ibtissam Ait Daoud sells her sleek ceramics — flying saucer ashtrays (120 dirhams), cylindrical vases (150) and volcano-shaped pitchers (120) — in tangerine, aubergine and silver hues. Owned by a French-Moroccan couple, Warda la Mouche (127 Rue Kennaria; 212-67-34-73-74) deals in prêt-à-porter, like psychedelic caftans (780), silver babouche slippers (40) and sailors’ blouses with Arabesque embroidery (320). Finally, for funky interpretations of North African housewares and fashion accessories, 

The sprawling 19th-century Bahia Palace (Rue Riad Zitoun el Jedid, Medina; 212-44-389-564) solves a design quandary that few architects today confront: How to build a house for a grand vizier’s 4 wives and 24 jealous concubines? The answer seems to be very stylishly and carefully, judging from the masterfully tiled, chiseled and carved details of the opulent palace. Admission is 10 dirhams to tour its intricate layout of rooms, gardens, courtyards and pavilions. Now a museum, the palace still periodically receives V.I.P.’s, including the hip-hop sultan Sean Combs, who flew in his entourage for a 2002 birthday bash.


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Casablanca or Marrakech!

Casablanca and Marrakech!



Call to prayer: Koutoubia Mosque at Sunset, Marrakech

Hard to imagine a more exciting day than I’ve just had: sunrise over the lights of Casablanca reflecting in the ocean as we finished our week-long crossing of the Atlantic, and sunset over the Koutoubia Mosque and the Medina in Marrakech!
Great to be back on solid earth after a week at sea (although our bodies still think we are at sea as the land “rolls” beneath us).   By 6:00 am this morning we could see the Casablanca approaching, dominated by the enormous Hassan II mosque and minaret built out over the ocean just south of the harbor. 

Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca

Casablanca Harbor at Sunrise




The night before Pat and I watched Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in the classic “Casablanca"; very little resemblance today to that World War II port city, as Casablanca now has over 6 million people.  It is an energetic, busy modern city.







I am the “Trip Liaison” leader for a group of 37 – 32 students, 2 faculty, 2 staff, and one life-long learner for a 4-day trip south of Casablanca to Marrakech and 2 days of “trekking” between Berber villages on the edge of the Atlas Mountains.  We left the ship at 10:00 am and traveled by bus to the Casablanca train station where we headed south to Marrakech on a 4-hour ride. 
Casablanca Train Station
Passengers, Casablanca Train Station
Atlas Mountains rising from the Haouz plain



The arid countryside with the Atlas Mountains in the distance reminds me so much of my Southern California home, especially the Mojave Desert area around Lancaster bordering the San Gabriel Mountains.
Central Marketplace & Plaza, Marrakech
Spices!
We arrived in Marrakech by mid-afternoon, and after checking into our hotel in “New Town,” Pat and I walked through the Medina walls, past the Koutoubia Mosque, and into the famous maze of “souks” – covered market stalls – where it is easy to get lost in the winding alley-ways, and where one can find everything from dates, spices, and olives to Berber and Arab rugs and brilliantly-dyed fabrics and ceramics.






We had been in the market for only a short while before we were enticed into a spectacular old “riad” – traditional house built around a courtyard – that now serves as home to a women’s weaving cooperative and hundreds of spectacular carpets covering all the walls.
Our host, Mohamed, was the epitome of Moroccan hospitality, and took us all throughout the house, explaining its history.  Originally the home of a 16th century famous university scholar, its main entry room spans three stories and is now covered in multicolored rugs.
Ceiling of Riad, Marrakech

Pat checks out Berber Rugs, Marrakech
Soon we were being served Moroccan mint tea, and the show began: Mohamed’s assistants began to bring out rug after rug (some as large as our modest Missoula home…) as he explained each weaving style, had us remove our shoes to feel the pile and weave, all the while refusing to mention anything about prices (“There will be time for that later!”).
Our host, Mohamed, with three of the Rugs we DIDN'T buy...
The longer we stayed and the more rugs we saw, the clearer it became that we were not going to be leaving without purchasing a rug (and if Mohamed had his way, several for each of us!).  We finally convinced him that the rugs he was showing us were far too large for our rooms, and we got down to small runner rugs – still beyond our price range, but getting closer.  We ended up with a beautiful red rug and a great story of our first encounter with the famous Marrakech merchants, and then we plunged further into the market. 
The Walled City: The Medina section of Marrakech at dusk
After a few hours of viewing the snake charmers, sampling fresh squeezed orange juice, and haggling over some beautiful old fossils I coveted, we made our way back to the hotel where we met the group and returned to the Medina for an amazing traditional Moroccan dinner at the Al Baraka restaurant – platter after platter of vegetables, couscous, olives, bread, and lamb & beef. 
Dinner, Al Baraka restaurant


Crescent Moon sets over the Koutoubia Mosque, Marrakech

As we left the central plaza (Djemma el Fna), it was swollen with families, couples, and friends celebrating the first Saturday evening after Ramadan, and a crescent moon hung low over the Koutoubia Mosque as firecrackers burst around us.  We finally made it back to the hotel and rest by 11 pm – a very full first day in Morocco under our belts.
After Ramadan: Saturday night in Old Marrakech

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MARKET LEADER in marrakech


MARKET LEADER in marrakech

Hard to imagine a more exciting day than I’ve just had: sunrise over the lights of Casablanca reflecting in the ocean as we finished our week-long crossing of the Atlantic, and sunset over the Koutoubia Mosque and the Medina in Marrakech!
We arrived in Marrakech by mid-afternoon, and after checking into our hotel in “New Town,” Pat and I walked through the Medina walls, past the Koutoubia Mosque, and into the famous maze of “souks” – covered market stalls – where it is easy to get lost in the winding alley-ways, and where one can find everything from dates, spices, and olives to Berber and Arab rugs and brilliantly-dyed fabrics and ceramics.
Great to be back on solid earth after a week at sea (although our bodies still think we are at sea as the land “rolls” beneath us).   By 6:00 am this morning we could see the Casablanca approaching, dominated by the enormous Hassan II mosque and minaret built out over the ocean just south of the harbor


North Africa’s most famous market, Djemaa el Fna square, explodes to life after dark. Lorded over by the illuminated minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, oceans of revelers come out to dine at sizzling food stalls and soak up the carnivalesque atmosphere conjured by monkey handlers, cobra charmers, drummers, acrobats, musicians, soapbox preachers and folk-medicine hawkers. If you can handle more dessert, visit the spice-cake dealers (40 dirhams a slice) and wash it down with a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice (a mere 3 dirhams) from one of the myriad fruit carts.


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PALACE FOR YOUR PALATE in marrakech


PALACE FOR YOUR PALATE in marrakech 
There are very few restaurants in Seattle that I would classify as "special event" restaurants, because either their staff is too stuck up and yuppie or their atmosphere is too stuffy for my taste - however this is one of the few I can say meets my standards for a place to take someone for a special evening.

Our special evening? My in-laws birthdays. I was aware of the popularity of Marrakesh, so we had reservations ahead of time, thankfully. There is a 3 foot by 4 foot waiting area - which means most people wait outside. That would be my only complaint, because in the dead of winter - its not a fun wait.

The restaurant is decorated fabulously - with rugs, scarves, fabric, covering every wall, floor and ceiling - and then small tables, pillows and stools for eating. The lights are low and the ambiance finished off perfectly with Moroccan music and dancing. 



We decided to get the Royale Feast Dinner - which is for 4 people or more. It is a 5 course meal that includes one of each special on the menu. 

Our waitress first came with a bowl to wash all of our hands. It was warm water and such a nice thing to do before we all eat. 



The first course the traditional lentil soup. SO savory, just the right temperature to sip from the bowls. Then the waitress brought a huge woven basket of sliced bread and told us to take some. Great homemade bread, complimented the soup perfectly. Before we had a chance to finish our soup, the second course - Moroccan salad came. It consisted of a hummus-like paste as well as a vegi medly that was almost like a greek salad, but better (no olives). We ended up eating them all together, and felt as though that could have been our dinner. 



The third course was easily the most INTERESTING dish I have ever eaten. I have lived in Africa, Greece, and have eaten tons of different foods, but this by far can be labeled the most yummy and interesting. It was called B'stilla Royale and basically its a light crispy filo dough, filled with a ground meat and onion mixture and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Something about the mixture makes it delectable. 



At this point we found ourselves comfortable but salivating at the mere thought of the next course and what they had next to surprise us with.

The 4th course was the MAIN course. And because we chose the Royale Feast. That is what we got. Each dish was savory in its own way. We got 3 chicken, one Couscous dish, and a lamb and a beef dish. We passed the dishes around the table, each taking bites from each dish. Its exactly what you WISH you could do at restaurants, try a bit of everything.



During the dinner course, the music got louder and the belly/sword dancer came out. She was a beautiful dancer who played with the patrons and invited a few people to dance with her. I often find side shows like this embarrassing and awkward, however she was so at ease and friendly, it was really entertaining.



With dinner done, low lights, comfortable pillows, we really could have taken a nap at this point, but the waitress came again - to wash our hands. After washing them - she sprinkled all of our hands with Rose Water - to prepare us for dessert. 

Our 5th course was served in tiny bowls. It was a small chopped apple, pear and banana salad that was mixed with their juices and a bit of brown sugar. It was VERY refreshing and wonderful after such a big filling meal. Our waitress then came with 5 glasses and asked us to sit back a bit, in case of splash over. Confused we sat back - and she then started to poor the hot, fragrant, sweetened mint tea - from ABOVE our heads! She kept moving up until she was pouring from as high as her arms could reach standing (and we were on the floor). The tea was more than tasty and a PERFECT way to end an amazing dinner.







Unlike the "group meal" like we recently got at the Italian Maggianno's that I reviewed saying we paid WAY too much for what we got - this on the other hand was $20 per person (FLAT, no additions) and we got MORE than expected and were pleasantly surprised.

Rating: ***** Excellent food, service and ambiance. It is a great place to take out of town guests, to celebrate an anniversary or for a special occasion.

Whether you’re proposing to your partner, celebrating an anniversary or pleading forgiveness for an affair — or if you’re just plain starved — everything is romantically presented and expertly cooked in the sumptuously Moorish interiors of Le Tobsil (22 Derb Moulay Abdallah Ben Hezzian; 212-24-44-40-52). The menu, which changes daily, typically includes cold Moroccan tapaslike salads, savory-sweet tagines and couscous with stewed meats and vegetables. A fruit-heavy dessert and glass of sweet mint tea provide the coda. Dinner for two is fixed at 1,200 dirhams, and includes wine. Reservations essential.


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LUNCH AMONG THE RUINS in marrakech


 LUNCH AMONG THE RUINS in marrakech
The perfect place to have lunch in Marrakech



Next to the former Jewish quarter and overlooking the time-worn walls of 16th-century El Badi Palace, the terrace of KosyBar (47 Place des Ferblantiers, Medina; 212-24-38-03-24) is a chic perch for a noontime bite. Settle into the deep couches, absorb the jazz-soul soundtrack and contemplate the menu of sushi, sashimi and various Euro-Oriental fusion dishes. Chilled carrot soup with ginger and cumin (50 dirhams) cuts the heat like a North African answer to gazpacho, while goat cheese ravioli (80 dirhams) adds Continental flair.

We did not sleep here as we definitely wanted to stay in a hotel in the medina during our first trip to Marrakech. However we did come here for lunch, and as I cannot find a separate heading for the Beldi’s restaurant, I am posting this here. This restaurant is a real find, and from conversations we had with ex-pats who were also having lunch at the Beldi, something unique on the Marrakech landscape. You need a taxi to get here, as it is approx 15 minutes outside the city.
To get to the restaurant you walk through a huge rose garden, much more than a garden as it’s a large field planted with what must be thousands of rose bushes. The restaurant has a real postcard setting, overlooking the roses, with the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the background. Just beautiful! There is a prix fix menu (350 dirhams per person if I remember correctly) which seemed very reasonable for the quality of the lunch. I had grilled sardines and the quail as a main dish, and both were perfectly cooked. The atmosphere here is very relaxed chic, yet the service is professional and attentive. I would highly recommend the Beldi to anyone who is looking for an original and relaxing place to have a delicious lunch outside the city.



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OLD MEDINA in marrakech


OLD MEDINA in marrakech

For full immersion into Marrakesh’s sights, sounds and smells, dive into the twisted passages of the Medina, the city’s old quarter. Head up Rue Souk Semarine, and you’ll pass veiled women, clambering mule carts, and narrow passages with stalls selling all manner of hand-spun textiles, inlaid mirrors, brass lanterns, wooden chests, fragrant leather goods, ceramic vases and enough carpets to pad the Alaskan wilderness. Haggling is essential. So is your poker face: feign indifference, affect a cool exterior and occasionally exaggerate outrage at counteroffers. Finish at the Ben Youssef Medersa, a 16th-century Koran school adorned with dazzling mosaics, intricate cedar panels and religious verses carved in white plaster. (No phone or Web site, and the location can be tricky to find, but it is right next to the Musée de Marrakech on Place Ben Youssef. Admission is 40 dirhams, or about $5 at 7.95 dirhams to the dollar.)


As you will see when you are travelling around Morocco and including the streets of Marrakech, as modern and europeanised it looks, especially when you compare with say another North Africa country as Tunisia where i hardly saw any donkeys!, donkeys and mules are used in a big way in the everyday lives of the locals.

In and around the medina you will see many donkeys in use - ie the old town centre of Marrakech - especially with the old narrow and winding streets that the small but hardy and strong donkeys seemed ideally matched for.

I really have a thing for donkeys! - cute and photogenic - certainly adds to the character of our visits to the culture here and to the look we get to see of local life in the medina.

For the local trying to eke out a living the donkey still has the advantage too of being much easier to look after and with less running costs than the modern vehicular replacements!

As has been a common complaint in the past it still can be a problem of these animals, as with the horses pulling the caleches, not being looked after as appreciatedly as they deserve.
Though a major appeal or advantage of the donkey is that they are strong and have great endurance and are able to carry loads much heavier than their own body weight it can be distressing to see situations of donkeys being seen with loads that are obviously above what they should be enduring ie trailers or carts with huge wheel bases on them! along with the load in the trailer and then maybe two passengers!

Apparently in the UK there is a law now that limits the weight that a donkey can carry as being 52kg! that is only a small adult maximum!

There is the AMAZING!! organisation Spana (www.spana.org.ma or in the UK www.spana.org) founded in 1959 by a British woman and her daughter with projects in many countries - check out their websites and see if you can resist not feeling the urge or need to donate!! - with not only the advantage of providing care or haven, such as animal hospitals including mobile hospitals in the souks, for abused animals but also to educate donkey, mule and horse owners of acceptable care of their animals and work resources - and it is pointed out that their aim is not only to help donkeys but by helping to look after the animals that so many families rely on it is also helping the families living conditions.

If you witness any problems with donkeys, mules or horses you can contact the police or the Centre Hospitalier pour Animaux in Marrakech. You can also contact Spana and visit their centre to see what they do and perhaps get involved with support.


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marrakech or marrakesh morocco

EVERY generation, Westerners find new reasons to go gaga for Marrakesh. For Edith Wharton and Winston Churchill, the draw was medieval Islamic architecture and rugged mountainous landscapes. For the globetrotting hippies of the woozy “Marrakesh Express” days, the appeal lay in “charming cobras” and “blowing smoke rings,” to quote Crosby, Stills and Nash. These days, with Marrakesh emerging as the center of North Africa’s style and night life, everyone from Julia Roberts to Naomi Campbell has threaded through its labyrinthine old lanes in search of celebrity chefs, opulent spas and designer boutiques. Indeed, for many of Europe’s jet set playgrounds — Ibiza discos, Riviera beach clubs, Paris hotels — a Marrakesh outpost is now de rigueur.

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The moroccan dress

The moroccan dress is introduced wearing is called a djellaba or djellabah. It's a traditional long loose fitting outer robe with full sleeves worn in the Maghreb region of North Africa and in Arabic-speaking countries along the Mediterranean. The baggy hood is called a cob and most djellabas for both men and women have them. (Pictured below is a traditional djellaba similar to Rynn's.)

This djellaba was bought in Chaouen by the Australian woman who has now donated it to the Museum. When travelling in Morocco in winter in the early 1970s, she bought it to keep warm; it was only afterwards, on finding herself a source of amusement for local women and children, that she discovered her djellaba was of the kind worn by men. Generally speaking, women’s djellabas are of different materials, more close-fitting and decorated with colourful embroidery.

Finally, those readers who think they may have seen a hooded woollen robe like this before are probably Star Wars fans.  It was the design of the Moroccan djellaba that inspired the hooded robes worn by Alec Guinness as Obi-wan-kenobe and the other valiant Jedi Knights in the Star Wars films.




The Djellaba, a typical robe that you cannot miss from the very first few seconds after arriving in Morocco. According to the many people we have met who have professed to be experts in many areas, there are three basic types of djellaba for men and two basic everyday options for women. For both sexes, the machzania or "government" djellaba is the most common throughout the country. For the men, there are also the northern and the southern djellaba, and for the women there is the kaftanlamic religion of Morocco is also a key factor in the way that Moroccan people dress. The djellaba covers the whole body and is therefore an acceptable modest outfit.

Djellabas come in different shapes and colours, and are worn in different forms. The djellaba is a long, loosely fitting hooded outer robe with full sleeves,that men and women pull over their garments. They are made in many different shapes and colours; generally men wear light colours, which is important as this helps reflect the strong Moroccan sun. Light colours are also available for women to wear but despite this, women choose to wear brighter colors such as pinks, blues and even black. The hood is of vital importance for both sexes as it protects the wearer from the sun and in earlier times was used as a defence against sand being blown into the wearers face by strong desert winds. Djellabas are made of a wide variety of materials, from cotton for summer-time djellabas to coarse wool for winter djellabas. The wool is typically harvested from camel,goats or sheep living in the surrounding mountains and then a long process of turning the wool into yarn is carried out and it is then woven in the fabric to create the garment.

Djellabas are worn by both men and women; the men's style is generally baggier, of darker colors, and plain. Women's djellabas are tighter and can sport elaborate decorative stitching in a variety of colors. Women sometimes add a scarf. Almost all djellabas of both styles include a baggy hood called a 'cob' that comes to a point at the back. Traditionally Djellabas reach right down to the ground but nowadays they are becoming slimmer and shorter.



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women's djellaba

women's djellaba

The classic Moroccan garment is called "djellaba", a long and loose hooded gown which Moroccans  wear it over their normal clothing. It covers the entire body except for the head, the hands and the feet and it comes in different colors, styles and fabrics depending on the season. During summer a cotton or rayon djellaba is preferred, while during winter a wool one.

This djellaba was made in the craft town of Chaouen (also known as Chefchaouen), situated in the Rif Mountains of northern Morocco, just inland from Tangier. Chaouen was founded in the 1400s by Moorish exiles from Spain; it became part of Spanish Morocco in 1920, but was released back to Morocco on becoming independent in 1956. Chaouen is well known for its excellence in the crafts, which include brassware, pottery and leather work as well as weaving.

This djellaba was bought in Chaouen by the Australian woman who has now donated it to the Museum. When travelling in Morocco in winter in the early 1970s, she bought it to keep warm; it was only afterwards, on finding herself a source of amusement for local women and children, that she discovered her djellaba was of the kind worn by men. Generally speaking, women’s djellabas are of different materials, more close-fitting and decorated with colourful embroidery.

Finally, those readers who think they may have seen a hooded woollen robe like this before are probably Star Wars fans.  It was the design of the Moroccan djellaba that inspired the hooded robes worn by Alec Guinness as Obi-wan-kenobe and the other valiant Jedi Knights in the Star Wars films.



The Djellaba, a typical robe that you cannot miss from the very first few seconds after arriving in Morocco. According to the many people we have met who have professed to be experts in many areas, there are three basic types of djellaba for men and two basic everyday options for women. For both sexes, the machzania or "government" djellaba is the most common throughout the country. For the men, there are also the northern and the southern djellaba, and for the women there is the kaftanlamic religion of Morocco is also a key factor in the way that Moroccan people dress. The djellaba covers the whole body and is therefore an acceptable modest outfit.

Djellabas come in different shapes and colours, and are worn in different forms. The djellaba is a long, loosely fitting hooded outer robe with full sleeves,that men and women pull over their garments. They are made in many different shapes and colours; generally men wear light colours, which is important as this helps reflect the strong Moroccan sun. Light colours are also available for women to wear but despite this, women choose to wear brighter colors such as pinks, blues and even black. The hood is of vital importance for both sexes as it protects the wearer from the sun and in earlier times was used as a defence against sand being blown into the wearers face by strong desert winds. Djellabas are made of a wide variety of materials, from cotton for summer-time djellabas to coarse wool for winter djellabas. The wool is typically harvested from camel,goats or sheep living in the surrounding mountains and then a long process of turning the wool into yarn is carried out and it is then woven in the fabric to create the garment.

Djellabas are worn by both men and women; the men's style is generally baggier, of darker colors, and plain. Women's djellabas are tighter and can sport elaborate decorative stitching in a variety of colors. Women sometimes add a scarf. Almost all djellabas of both styles include a baggy hood called a 'cob' that comes to a point at the back. Traditionally Djellabas reach right down to the ground but nowadays they are becoming slimmer and shorter.

The djellaba is worn traditionally both by men and women, but the women's djellaba differs in style as it has brighter colors and decorative embroidery.


Another traditional garment worn this time only by women is the kaftan. It looks like the djellaba, but it doens't have the hood. The kaftan can be simple for day to day and it can also come in a more elegant and sofisticated style worn by women on weddings or celebrations. It is also the bride's garment on her wedding day.
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Marrakech Adventures


 I had ever won so I was super-excited – who wouldn’t be?.  Three weeks ago we were in Marrakech and even though the temperature was over 40 degrees, we chose to do the Urban Adventures full day walking tour.

We chose this before we left home and then confirmed it with a telephone call a day or two beforehand as recommended.  When we arrived at the meeting place there were quite a few  travellers who had arrived to do the half day tour.  We were tempted to join their group as we were already having fun exchanging stories.  They had just finished an Intrepid Tour of Morocco – one that we had tried hard to fit in but our dates wouldn’t work – and were full of praise for it.  Eventually we decided to stick with the full day tour we had already chosen.

Our guide was cool, relaxed, funny, interesting and answered our questions well. There was no way we would have seen as much by ourselves in one day, or learned so much about what we were seeing.  The fact that we just had to follow  and not  find our own way was wonderful as well.  A good thing about U.A. is that they use local people as guides, so they can answer any obscure questions you might have.
As it was our first day in Marrakech and Morocco we were experiencing culture shock so it was a real bonus to have someone show us around.  Walking in the souks for the first time with a guide was wonderful.  He took us to a wood craft stall where we saw the craftsman at work,  and showed us the boilers being fired with wood to heat the hammam.  In the souk we also saw the original building where camel caravan traders stayed. 
Where the camel caravanners of old used to stay in Marrakech
I particularly enjoyed the alleys that had the timber slats as a roof, but as our guide pointed out they let the rain in as well as the light.
Walking in the Souk at MarrakechBut the souks were only a small part of what we saw on the day.
We saw the Bert Flint – Maison Tiskiwin (Museum),  where Bert, now in his 80′s still works in his office.  The museum houses Bert’s collection of African artifacts.
Bert Flint's Collection of African Artifacts is displayed at Maison TiskiwinThe Bahia Palace  with it’s ornate ceilings and harem stories.
Exquisite Ceilings in the Bahia PalaceBab Agnaou the most decorative and largest  Gate to the Kasbah.
The Gate to the Casbah, MarrakechThe Saadian Tombs, final resting place for sixty members of the Saadi dynasty that date back to 1578 which were only discovered again in 1917.
Saadien Tombs, MarrakechClose to Bab Agnaou, was Herboristerie Bab Agnaou where the rooms were lined with bottle upon bottle of who knows what, and we acquired some tagine spice mixes and an eczema treatment based on argan oil, but mixed with other things, which our daughter has since proclaimed a miracle treatment. 
HerboristerieThe tour started and finished in Jemaa el Fna square which was masquerading behind  it’s laid back day time persona. 
During the morning we saw the other U.A. group (half-day tour) several times and had fun chatting with them.  If it is a little cooler when you are there I would suggest doing the full day trip, but I am sure they would all be good.  As it turned out we ended up with our own personal tour.   I won the tours in my own right as Jan Robinson.

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