The Future of Woman's Clothing in Morocco:
Morocco is a very progressive Muslim culture, and the way of dress for women and hijab is much less strict than in other Islamic countries. There have even been governmental and cultural movements in Morocco to "modernize" the dress code for women in an effort to seem more open to international appeal. In the 1970's and 80's these movements were very popular with the county's upper classes, but today the steam seem to have worn off a little, as "traditional clothing" seems to be very much in style now.
In an article in the BBC's World News website the headline reads, Morocco Moves to Drop Headscarf, and is about how the Moroccan government is slowly removing some images of women in headscarves from school textbooks. But this movement has not yet gone beyond superficial trimmings, as woman's dress is a major issue in Islamic cultures, and any teetering of this balance could provoke a wide-spread fundamentalist movement to counter any government sanctioned changes to women's clothing. But this effort to Westernize women's dress does not seem to have much of an effect on the youth of Morocco, as young women have found ways of combining hijab with modern fashions. As Pamela Windo wrote in an article for Newsweek:
"Although they [headscarves] are made of colorful fabrics with pretty clips at the back, what most struck me was the blatant dichotomy between the hijab and their other clothes. While a few women wear it with a subdued djellaba, and others with their everyday modern suits, skirts and coats, a startling number of young Moroccan women combine the hijab with figure-revealing blue or black jeans, elaborate glittering belts, modern sexy tops and designer sunglasses. Equally striking is the glossy-magazine-style make-up, heavy on the lipstick and black kohl eye-liner" (Newsweek, Hijabs and High-heels).
This is an interesting phenomenon and is on par with a traditional Islamic revitalization that is taken place throughout the Muslim world. "In more secular Muslim nations, such as Turkey, Iraq, and Egypt, many women are choosing to wear the Hijab, Burqa, Niqab, etc. as an act of defiance against the secularization of society, but also because of the widespread growth of the Islamic revival in those areas[citation needed]. Similarly, increasing numbers of men are abandoning the Western dress of jeans and t-shirts, that dominated places like Egypt 20 to 30 years ago, in favour of more traditional Islamic clothing such as the Galabiyya" (Wikipedia entry on Hijab). Many young people in these regions seem to be going back on the "modernizing" efforts of their parents and are reveling in their Muslim identity, as least as far as in the way they dress. This can be said of Morocco, as the majority of the young women that I observed in the streets seemed to at least referenced traditional Islamic dress in their clothing, even if the look that they portrayed was overwhelmingly modern.
Hijab and its effect on Moroccan women's fashion:
Hijab and its effect on Moroccan women's fashion:
The idea of hijab - to cover or provide privacy - is a central factor in any discussion of Moroccan women's clothing. "In some Arabic-speaking countries and Western countries, the word hijab primarily refers to women's head and body covering, but in Islamic scholarship, hijab is given the wider meaning of modesty, privacy, and morality" (Wikipedia Hijab). Thus being, the essential philosophy behind Moroccan women's clothing is to cover the body with clothing which preserve for the wearer an impression of modesty, piety, and highly reserved sexuality. The Qur'an (24:31) states that:
“And say to the believing women that they cast down their looks and guard their private parts and do not display their ornaments except what appears thereof, and let them wear their head-coverings (khimars) over their bosoms (jaybs), and not display their ornaments except to their husbands, their fathers, their husbands' fathers, their sons, their husbands' sons, their brothers or their brothers' sons, or their sisters' sons, or their women, or the slaves whom their right hands possess, or male servants free of physical needs, or small children who have no sense of the shame of sex . . . "
In practice, hijab means that women must keep the essential forms of their womanhood covered from view with clothing that does not provide much of an indication of the shapes and graces found within when in public or in the company of men that are not of their family. This means that the women of Morocco tend to publicly wear long and loose robes (djellaba), button-up blouses which extend down to the knees or the ankles (kafkan), and headscarves (khimar) which cover most of the hair, the ears and the neck. Young girls in Morocco are except from the practice of hijab until the time of puberty, when they too are required to begin donning the concealing clothing of their mothers.
Although hijab - the wearing of modest clothing - is highly regarded in Morocco it is not compulsory for a woman to dress this way. It is becoming fairly common in Morocco for women to go out in public without wearing headscarves, long sleeves, and in Western style clothing. But for formal occasions, such as weddings or religious festivals, the principles of hijab prevail and women tend to wear traditional style Moroccan clothing (Wikipedia).
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The idea of hijab - to cover or provide privacy - is a central factor in any discussion of Moroccan women's clothing. "In some Arabic-speaking countries and Western countries, the word hijab primarily refers to women's head and body covering, but in Islamic scholarship, hijab is given the wider meaning of modesty, privacy, and morality" (Wikipedia Hijab). Thus being, the essential philosophy behind Moroccan women's clothing is to cover the body with clothing which preserve for the wearer an impression of modesty, piety, and highly reserved sexuality. The Qur'an (24:31) states that:
“And say to the believing women that they cast down their looks and guard their private parts and do not display their ornaments except what appears thereof, and let them wear their head-coverings (khimars) over their bosoms (jaybs), and not display their ornaments except to their husbands, their fathers, their husbands' fathers, their sons, their husbands' sons, their brothers or their brothers' sons, or their sisters' sons, or their women, or the slaves whom their right hands possess, or male servants free of physical needs, or small children who have no sense of the shame of sex . . . "
In practice, hijab means that women must keep the essential forms of their womanhood covered from view with clothing that does not provide much of an indication of the shapes and graces found within when in public or in the company of men that are not of their family. This means that the women of Morocco tend to publicly wear long and loose robes (djellaba), button-up blouses which extend down to the knees or the ankles (kafkan), and headscarves (khimar) which cover most of the hair, the ears and the neck. Young girls in Morocco are except from the practice of hijab until the time of puberty, when they too are required to begin donning the concealing clothing of their mothers.
Although hijab - the wearing of modest clothing - is highly regarded in Morocco it is not compulsory for a woman to dress this way. It is becoming fairly common in Morocco for women to go out in public without wearing headscarves, long sleeves, and in Western style clothing. But for formal occasions, such as weddings or religious festivals, the principles of hijab prevail and women tend to wear traditional style Moroccan clothing (Wikipedia).
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Examples of hijab mandated Muslim women's fashions are below:
Examples of hijab mandated Muslim women's fashions are below:
Various examples of hijab throughout the Muslim World. Photo courtesy
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Various examples of hijab throughout the Muslim World. Photo courtesy
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Moroccan Jelaba
Moroccan Jelaba
Moroccan jelaba, jellaba or djellaba is a unique Moroccan item of clothing. It is worn in most Moroccan cities and towns by both men and women, and is basically a long, loose fitting hooded robe with full sleeves.
The jelaba is available in multiple colors and fabrics, and as can be expected, there are more choices for women who can select from a wide range of designs, colors and shapes. Styles also vary depending on region within Morocco. Married women in Morocco typically wear more conservative, less colorful jelabas than those worn by single women.
A white jelaba is the dress code for men during Friday prayers throughout the mosques and for special occasions such as marriage ceremonies and holidays celebrations. It is usually baggy with one plain color. Every single Jelaba includes a “cob” hood which is usually used for protection against rain, sun, and wind. Jelabas are made of cotton or coarse wool, which can be tailored to customer’s specification. As a result, tailors can be found in most neighborhoods in Morocco.
If you are shopping for a traditional Moroccan Jelaba most markets have shops where they can be purchased. Prices start at $25 around 200DH for a very simple style jelaba.
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Dressing & Public Behavior in Morocco
Dressing & Public Behavior in Morocco
Morocco is a Muslim country, and modest dress is the norm. While there has been some significant Westernization of clothing styles, even the latest fashions are given a modest take in this country. Many women wear the traditional djellaba and headscarf, yet it is common to see younger girls and women who wear jeans and T-shirts.
As a visitor, you certainly aren’t expected to wear traditional dress, but covering up your shoulders and upper arms, not wearing anything above the knee, and keeping all parts of your midriff covered would be a good way to show you respect the culture of modesty present among the locals. To keep cool in the warmer climate, keeping your garments loose not only adds to a modesty factor, but will also keep you cooler during the day as well.
For men, it is also a good idea to consider modesty as well and keep with the same lines of women’s dress in keeping the shoulders covered and not wearing a pair of shorts that go above the knee.
In more rural areas, it is better for both men and women to consider covering up even further by wearing long, loose pants or an ankle-length skirt. For women, covering more of the arm with at least a ¾ length sleeve is also a good idea. If you are planning to attend a mosque, this dress, as well as covering the hair would be necessary. Additionally, both men and women need to remove their shoes before entering a mosque.
On most beaches, swimsuits are acceptable, but should only be shown once on the beach. If you must change, doing so in one of the available changing rooms or restrooms is more appropriate than doing so on the beach.
In addition to the way you dress, take into consideration certain behaviors in public. For instance, public displays of affection between the opposite sexes are not common and still a bit taboo. Men and women should keep a bit of distance between themselves when walking along the street. However, it is customary for men to hold hands of their male friends and family members when walking along the street and the same goes for women. This is purely platonic as homosexuality is still quite taboo in Morocco.
In many instances, a woman taking a seat at the male-dominated cafes is also still considered unacceptable. However, this is less so for Western women, and if you really want to visit a cafe, try sitting at one of the tables on the inside section and not the seats along the sidewalk.
In general, it is best for a woman not to go out alone if possible. Having a male companion, or at least another female will ward off lewd comments and inappropriate actions from local men, which is unfortunately, all too common.
If you happen to visit Morocco during Ramadan, you would not be expected to fast from food and drink as the Muslims do from dawn until dusk. However, it would be very offensive to eat in public so you should plan meals and travel around being able to eat in a private space. You should also note that most restaurants and cafes during the day, so finding food to eat may prove more difficult than eating it in public anyway.
Morocco is a Muslim country, and modest dress is the norm. While there has been some significant Westernization of clothing styles, even the latest fashions are given a modest take in this country. Many women wear the traditional djellaba and headscarf, yet it is common to see younger girls and women who wear jeans and T-shirts.
As a visitor, you certainly aren’t expected to wear traditional dress, but covering up your shoulders and upper arms, not wearing anything above the knee, and keeping all parts of your midriff covered would be a good way to show you respect the culture of modesty present among the locals. To keep cool in the warmer climate, keeping your garments loose not only adds to a modesty factor, but will also keep you cooler during the day as well.
For men, it is also a good idea to consider modesty as well and keep with the same lines of women’s dress in keeping the shoulders covered and not wearing a pair of shorts that go above the knee.
In more rural areas, it is better for both men and women to consider covering up even further by wearing long, loose pants or an ankle-length skirt. For women, covering more of the arm with at least a ¾ length sleeve is also a good idea. If you are planning to attend a mosque, this dress, as well as covering the hair would be necessary. Additionally, both men and women need to remove their shoes before entering a mosque.
On most beaches, swimsuits are acceptable, but should only be shown once on the beach. If you must change, doing so in one of the available changing rooms or restrooms is more appropriate than doing so on the beach.
In addition to the way you dress, take into consideration certain behaviors in public. For instance, public displays of affection between the opposite sexes are not common and still a bit taboo. Men and women should keep a bit of distance between themselves when walking along the street. However, it is customary for men to hold hands of their male friends and family members when walking along the street and the same goes for women. This is purely platonic as homosexuality is still quite taboo in Morocco.
In many instances, a woman taking a seat at the male-dominated cafes is also still considered unacceptable. However, this is less so for Western women, and if you really want to visit a cafe, try sitting at one of the tables on the inside section and not the seats along the sidewalk.
In general, it is best for a woman not to go out alone if possible. Having a male companion, or at least another female will ward off lewd comments and inappropriate actions from local men, which is unfortunately, all too common.
If you happen to visit Morocco during Ramadan, you would not be expected to fast from food and drink as the Muslims do from dawn until dusk. However, it would be very offensive to eat in public so you should plan meals and travel around being able to eat in a private space. You should also note that most restaurants and cafes during the day, so finding food to eat may prove more difficult than eating it in public anyway.
Monuments & History in Rabat Morocco
Monuments & History in Rabat Morocco
Acting as Morocco’s capital city for since the French protectorate, which ended in the 1950s, Rabat is more of a laid-back coastal town more than it is a booming metropolis like its much bigger sister city, Casablanca. The capital city has a lot to offer, especially in the way of monuments and historical sites worth visiting. Additionally, Rabat has a medina that is worth exploring. While it is minute when compared to the Fez Medina, for example, it is hassle-free and you can get real bargains on Moroccan crafts and even Berber rugs.
While Rabat is booming in an economic, political, and administrative sense, it is a place where learning and the arts are highly respected. The monuments here speak of an ancient and fertile past that links the country to both the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians. When the Romans moved into the area to create what would become their farthest colony south of Rome, they left artifacts and ruins that can still be visited. Eventually, Arab rulers took over the city and built a fortified kasbah that they called a ribat, which is where modern-day Rabat got its name. When the Almohad Dynasty moved in around the twelfth century, they rebuilt the kasbah and used it as their war base while taking over the south of Spain.
The Citadel of Chellah Gardens:
While Rabat has many impressive monuments and sites to see, the most beautiful are the Chellah Gardens that are open daily to the public. In the springtime, the flowers inside the garden are blooming with colors and heavenly scents. Unlike Menara Gardens in Marrakesh, which were never inhabited, the Chellah was left completely empty by the 1200s because more people were moving to the more popular city of Sale, which is separated from Rabat by the Bou Regreg River.
The Sanctuary of the Chellah Gardens was used as royal burial grounds. The Almohads who had the door decorated and inscribed with Arabesque calligraphy created the remarkable entrance into Chellah. The Roman ruins of the Chellah Gardens, much like the ruins of Volubilis are also open to the public and many travelers are surprised at how freely tourists can roam around the area. With minimal observation from the workers and security working there, it is up to travelers to make sure they respect certain areas.
The Sanctuary of the Chellah Gardens are the true home of the Islamic artifacts that were uncovered here. A minaret made of stone is a nice centerpiece. The Abou Youssef Mosque is now in ruins and was a small structure to begin with. However, the area is near the royal tombs, where Abou El Hassan and other historical leaders of importance are buried.
Mohammed V Mausoleum & the Hassan Mosque:
The Mausoleum of Mohammed V is also a mosque was, strangely enough, designed by a Vietnamese architect who wanted to capture the more traditional Moroccan art techniques, while still asserting an air of modernity. The Mausoleum is one holy place that foreigners and non-Muslims are allowed to enter.
The Hassan Mosque in Rabat was started as an ambitious project to be one of the largest mosques in the world. The mosque was designed to be a symbol to the success of Morocco over its battles with Spain. Like the Kairouine Mosque in Fez does, this mosque would have held tens of thousands of worshippers. However, it was brought down and left unfinished when the Lisbon earthquake also brought down several structures along Morocco’s coast with it. The structure is unique and each of its different faces gives way to a different type of architecture, namely a motif called Shabka that is still popular today.
Acting as Morocco’s capital city for since the French protectorate, which ended in the 1950s, Rabat is more of a laid-back coastal town more than it is a booming metropolis like its much bigger sister city, Casablanca. The capital city has a lot to offer, especially in the way of monuments and historical sites worth visiting. Additionally, Rabat has a medina that is worth exploring. While it is minute when compared to the Fez Medina, for example, it is hassle-free and you can get real bargains on Moroccan crafts and even Berber rugs.
While Rabat is booming in an economic, political, and administrative sense, it is a place where learning and the arts are highly respected. The monuments here speak of an ancient and fertile past that links the country to both the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians. When the Romans moved into the area to create what would become their farthest colony south of Rome, they left artifacts and ruins that can still be visited. Eventually, Arab rulers took over the city and built a fortified kasbah that they called a ribat, which is where modern-day Rabat got its name. When the Almohad Dynasty moved in around the twelfth century, they rebuilt the kasbah and used it as their war base while taking over the south of Spain.
The Citadel of Chellah Gardens:
While Rabat has many impressive monuments and sites to see, the most beautiful are the Chellah Gardens that are open daily to the public. In the springtime, the flowers inside the garden are blooming with colors and heavenly scents. Unlike Menara Gardens in Marrakesh, which were never inhabited, the Chellah was left completely empty by the 1200s because more people were moving to the more popular city of Sale, which is separated from Rabat by the Bou Regreg River.
The Sanctuary of the Chellah Gardens was used as royal burial grounds. The Almohads who had the door decorated and inscribed with Arabesque calligraphy created the remarkable entrance into Chellah. The Roman ruins of the Chellah Gardens, much like the ruins of Volubilis are also open to the public and many travelers are surprised at how freely tourists can roam around the area. With minimal observation from the workers and security working there, it is up to travelers to make sure they respect certain areas.
The Sanctuary of the Chellah Gardens are the true home of the Islamic artifacts that were uncovered here. A minaret made of stone is a nice centerpiece. The Abou Youssef Mosque is now in ruins and was a small structure to begin with. However, the area is near the royal tombs, where Abou El Hassan and other historical leaders of importance are buried.
Mohammed V Mausoleum & the Hassan Mosque:
The Mausoleum of Mohammed V is also a mosque was, strangely enough, designed by a Vietnamese architect who wanted to capture the more traditional Moroccan art techniques, while still asserting an air of modernity. The Mausoleum is one holy place that foreigners and non-Muslims are allowed to enter.
The Hassan Mosque in Rabat was started as an ambitious project to be one of the largest mosques in the world. The mosque was designed to be a symbol to the success of Morocco over its battles with Spain. Like the Kairouine Mosque in Fez does, this mosque would have held tens of thousands of worshippers. However, it was brought down and left unfinished when the Lisbon earthquake also brought down several structures along Morocco’s coast with it. The structure is unique and each of its different faces gives way to a different type of architecture, namely a motif called Shabka that is still popular today.
Marrakesh: A Brief History
Marrakesh: A Brief History
Over the centuries, Marrakesh has been a desert oasis, military headquarters, a religious center and the playground of a sultan. It is one of Morocco’s great cities, but it began as a watering hole for the local Berber tribes. It was little more than a remote outpost before the Almoravid Berber leader Youssef bin Tashufin, cousin to the sultan, and his wife Zeinab founded what would become the city of Marrakesh in 1062 A.D.
Under Tashufin’s guidance, the city grew house by house. A mosque was established and, eventually, Marrakesh became the capital of the Almoravid Empire. Under the Almohads, Marrakesh developed into a luxurious Islamic city. It quickly became a center of commercial power.
Originally captured by the Almohads in 1147 A.D., the existing religious and civic structures were destroyed; it was stripped down to little more than plumbing. Marrakesh is known as the “red town” because of the distinctive Kasbah wall that surrounds the city’s medina. Yacoub el-Mansour redesigned the city and incorporated a fortified Kasbahs, beautiful gardens, covered markets called gissariats and the Koutubia mosque, the city’s major landmark.
Yet, the Almorvid Empire lost Marrakesh to the Merenids in the middle of the 13th century. A period of steep decline followed as the city lost its prominent place in the region to Fez. Marrakesh was largely neglected during the reign of the Merenids. Nearly 300 years later, the Saadians took control of Morocco in 1522. By this time Marrakesh was in ruins, but Sultan Moulay Abdullah established it as a new capital for the Saadian kingdom in 1551. A rich sugar trade funded new construction, and Mohammed Al Mahdi set about restoring the grandeur of Marrakesh.
During this period, magnificent structures like the Al Bedi Palace were built. It was also a remarkable period for Moroccan craftsmanship. Many artisans traveled to Marrakesh to contribute their considerable talents to various public and private projects. By the 17th century, Marrakesh had regained its wealth and cultural influence. In 1669, it was truly the most influential city in Morocco. However, the same year spelled the end (again) of Marrakesh’s exalted status.
Almost another century of disrepair and neglect passed before Mohammed III restored the city in the middle of the 18th century. The rejuvenated city remained largely the same until 1917 when the French invaded Morocco and removed El Hiba, a Saharan chieftain who had held Marrakesh for the last five years. At that time, Morocco became a French protectorate, and a modern, French-styled city was constructed beyond the walls of the older medina.
When Morocco became independent in 1956, the new monarchy ousted the Glaousa family, but since then, the city has become a haven for artists and activity. Now, more than fifty years later, Marrakesh remains an important city with a rich cultural history that attracts visitors from around the world.
Over the centuries, Marrakesh has been a desert oasis, military headquarters, a religious center and the playground of a sultan. It is one of Morocco’s great cities, but it began as a watering hole for the local Berber tribes. It was little more than a remote outpost before the Almoravid Berber leader Youssef bin Tashufin, cousin to the sultan, and his wife Zeinab founded what would become the city of Marrakesh in 1062 A.D.
Under Tashufin’s guidance, the city grew house by house. A mosque was established and, eventually, Marrakesh became the capital of the Almoravid Empire. Under the Almohads, Marrakesh developed into a luxurious Islamic city. It quickly became a center of commercial power.
Originally captured by the Almohads in 1147 A.D., the existing religious and civic structures were destroyed; it was stripped down to little more than plumbing. Marrakesh is known as the “red town” because of the distinctive Kasbah wall that surrounds the city’s medina. Yacoub el-Mansour redesigned the city and incorporated a fortified Kasbahs, beautiful gardens, covered markets called gissariats and the Koutubia mosque, the city’s major landmark.
Yet, the Almorvid Empire lost Marrakesh to the Merenids in the middle of the 13th century. A period of steep decline followed as the city lost its prominent place in the region to Fez. Marrakesh was largely neglected during the reign of the Merenids. Nearly 300 years later, the Saadians took control of Morocco in 1522. By this time Marrakesh was in ruins, but Sultan Moulay Abdullah established it as a new capital for the Saadian kingdom in 1551. A rich sugar trade funded new construction, and Mohammed Al Mahdi set about restoring the grandeur of Marrakesh.
During this period, magnificent structures like the Al Bedi Palace were built. It was also a remarkable period for Moroccan craftsmanship. Many artisans traveled to Marrakesh to contribute their considerable talents to various public and private projects. By the 17th century, Marrakesh had regained its wealth and cultural influence. In 1669, it was truly the most influential city in Morocco. However, the same year spelled the end (again) of Marrakesh’s exalted status.
Almost another century of disrepair and neglect passed before Mohammed III restored the city in the middle of the 18th century. The rejuvenated city remained largely the same until 1917 when the French invaded Morocco and removed El Hiba, a Saharan chieftain who had held Marrakesh for the last five years. At that time, Morocco became a French protectorate, and a modern, French-styled city was constructed beyond the walls of the older medina.
When Morocco became independent in 1956, the new monarchy ousted the Glaousa family, but since then, the city has become a haven for artists and activity. Now, more than fifty years later, Marrakesh remains an important city with a rich cultural history that attracts visitors from around the world.
Should I Travel To Morocco Right Now?
Should I Travel To Morocco Right Now?
With political tension on the rise in North Africa and the Middle East, many travelers have questions about the situation in Morocco. At Journey Beyond Travel, we want you to feel safe and secure in your choice to visit Morocco. We also realize that travelers have legitimate concerns about visiting Morocco at this time, so we’ve put together an FAQ with some the more common questions we’ve received about travel in Morocco and the region in general.
Q: I’ve seen the news reports about demonstrations and protests in places like Egypt and Tunisia. Are there similar demonstrations happening now in Morocco?
A: No, though there are rumblings that protests and demonstrations could take place in the country before too long.
Q: Are tensions in the country high?
A: Yes, but not in the way you may think. Morocco and Moroccans are sympathetic to the protesters they see on the news each day, but, as of late, have not felt they are under the same duress. Morocco has a largely open political climate, and the public is allowed to demonstrate and speak openly against government policy—something many of the Egyptian and Tunisian protesters have listed as a major complaint against their own governments.
Q: But you say there is still tension. What do you mean by that?
A: Moroccans are very well informed and keep abreast of global affairs. That they themselves are not protesting right now does not mean they have not taken sides. While it’s usually considered prudent to avoid political conversation as a rule, whether about Western military power, the status of the Western Sahara or anything else for that matter, this rule of thumb holds especially true now.
Q: Morocco is a monarchy. Don’t the people wish they had greater personal freedoms?
A: Yes, but for the vast majority of Morocco, life is very good right now. When the current King, Mohammad VI, took power, he began a sweeping liberalization of the country and its laws. In the last decade the country has loosened laws on not only public demonstrations, but also women’s rights, freedom of the press and the rights of minorities.
Q: That’s great, but there must be a few areas where people have reason to be upset, right?
A: Yes. While freedom of the press has been expanded, it is still against the law to write anything mocking or criticizing the King. One young man was recently sentenced to three years in jail for creating a fake Facebook page for the monarch. Also, economic inequality is staggering in Morocco, and while the situation has been improving, many people are still forced to live in slums and shantytowns. That said, the government has been working to improve living conditions and public health, but there is still a long way to go.
Q: Would it be risky for me to travel to Morocco right now?
A: Not necessarily, or certainly no more so than any other time of year. The situation in the country is currently stable, and Moroccans value the income from tourism. Any anger or frustration they have is not toward tourists. If you take the same basic precautions you would on any trip to the country, you should be in no danger. Keep abreast of the news, avoid gatherings of large people and don’t become involved in any political demonstrations yourself. As always, make sure people know where you are, register with your embassy before traveling and take a working cell phone and the numbers of your country’s embassy and emergency contacts.
Please note that this is the opinion of Journey Beyond Travel and does not constitute personal travel advice. You are responsible for all decisions you make should you choose to travel to Morocco at this time.
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With political tension on the rise in North Africa and the Middle East, many travelers have questions about the situation in Morocco. At Journey Beyond Travel, we want you to feel safe and secure in your choice to visit Morocco. We also realize that travelers have legitimate concerns about visiting Morocco at this time, so we’ve put together an FAQ with some the more common questions we’ve received about travel in Morocco and the region in general.
Q: I’ve seen the news reports about demonstrations and protests in places like Egypt and Tunisia. Are there similar demonstrations happening now in Morocco?
A: No, though there are rumblings that protests and demonstrations could take place in the country before too long.
Q: Are tensions in the country high?
A: Yes, but not in the way you may think. Morocco and Moroccans are sympathetic to the protesters they see on the news each day, but, as of late, have not felt they are under the same duress. Morocco has a largely open political climate, and the public is allowed to demonstrate and speak openly against government policy—something many of the Egyptian and Tunisian protesters have listed as a major complaint against their own governments.
Q: But you say there is still tension. What do you mean by that?
A: Moroccans are very well informed and keep abreast of global affairs. That they themselves are not protesting right now does not mean they have not taken sides. While it’s usually considered prudent to avoid political conversation as a rule, whether about Western military power, the status of the Western Sahara or anything else for that matter, this rule of thumb holds especially true now.
Q: Morocco is a monarchy. Don’t the people wish they had greater personal freedoms?
A: Yes, but for the vast majority of Morocco, life is very good right now. When the current King, Mohammad VI, took power, he began a sweeping liberalization of the country and its laws. In the last decade the country has loosened laws on not only public demonstrations, but also women’s rights, freedom of the press and the rights of minorities.
Q: That’s great, but there must be a few areas where people have reason to be upset, right?
A: Yes. While freedom of the press has been expanded, it is still against the law to write anything mocking or criticizing the King. One young man was recently sentenced to three years in jail for creating a fake Facebook page for the monarch. Also, economic inequality is staggering in Morocco, and while the situation has been improving, many people are still forced to live in slums and shantytowns. That said, the government has been working to improve living conditions and public health, but there is still a long way to go.
Q: Would it be risky for me to travel to Morocco right now?
A: Not necessarily, or certainly no more so than any other time of year. The situation in the country is currently stable, and Moroccans value the income from tourism. Any anger or frustration they have is not toward tourists. If you take the same basic precautions you would on any trip to the country, you should be in no danger. Keep abreast of the news, avoid gatherings of large people and don’t become involved in any political demonstrations yourself. As always, make sure people know where you are, register with your embassy before traveling and take a working cell phone and the numbers of your country’s embassy and emergency contacts.
Please note that this is the opinion of Journey Beyond Travel and does not constitute personal travel advice. You are responsible for all decisions you make should you choose to travel to Morocco at this time.
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Morocco’s Agafay Desert
Morocco’s Agafay Desert
The Agafay Desert is located just an hour’s drive from the lively souks and dizzying maze-like market streets of Marrakech. Literally untouched by development, the Agafay offers quite the contrast from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech.
Visiting the Agafay Desert is a good option if you would like to gaze at some sand dunes and desert, but don’t have the time to travel all the way south to where Morocco borders the Western Sahara. In the spring, the Agafay is alive with blooming wildflowers. The rest of the year, the Agafay is parched and thirsting for water giving you just a taste of the aridness of the Great Sahara.
There are currently no train lines south of Marrakech so if you want to travel to the desert you will need to rent a car, catch a bus or take an organized tour. Quite a few tour companies offer multi-day ATV tours of the Agafay hills complete with tent camping and traditional Moroccan meals. These off-the-beaten path type of tours take you across sand dunes, over rocky buttes and through hidden canyons all offering splendid views of the Atlas Mountains in the background.
Popular Morocco tours arranged by Journey Beyond Travel include a trip to Lake Takerkoust, a manmade lake on the edge of the Agafay Desert that was built in 1929 to provide the city of Marrakech and surrounding areas with electricity. You can swim and sunbathe at one of the beaches alongside the lake or you can rent jet skis or pedal boats and explore the waters. The hills above the lake offer many hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding trails.
Quite a few luxurious boutique accommodations have sprouted up alongside the Agafay Desert. La Pause is a peaceful retreat alongside an oasis of palm and olive trees. This resort offers simple luxury in the Berber tradition meaning there is no electricity, but visitors are treated to thousands of candles and exquisite meals served under tents with wide-open views of the surrounding desert and Moroccan wilderness. Visitors can enjoy a camel sunset ride, a round of cross-golf (a unique version of cross-country golf), mountain biking and horseback riding.
The Agafay Desert is located just an hour’s drive from the lively souks and dizzying maze-like market streets of Marrakech. Literally untouched by development, the Agafay offers quite the contrast from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech.
Visiting the Agafay Desert is a good option if you would like to gaze at some sand dunes and desert, but don’t have the time to travel all the way south to where Morocco borders the Western Sahara. In the spring, the Agafay is alive with blooming wildflowers. The rest of the year, the Agafay is parched and thirsting for water giving you just a taste of the aridness of the Great Sahara.
There are currently no train lines south of Marrakech so if you want to travel to the desert you will need to rent a car, catch a bus or take an organized tour. Quite a few tour companies offer multi-day ATV tours of the Agafay hills complete with tent camping and traditional Moroccan meals. These off-the-beaten path type of tours take you across sand dunes, over rocky buttes and through hidden canyons all offering splendid views of the Atlas Mountains in the background.
Popular Morocco tours arranged by Journey Beyond Travel include a trip to Lake Takerkoust, a manmade lake on the edge of the Agafay Desert that was built in 1929 to provide the city of Marrakech and surrounding areas with electricity. You can swim and sunbathe at one of the beaches alongside the lake or you can rent jet skis or pedal boats and explore the waters. The hills above the lake offer many hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding trails.
Quite a few luxurious boutique accommodations have sprouted up alongside the Agafay Desert. La Pause is a peaceful retreat alongside an oasis of palm and olive trees. This resort offers simple luxury in the Berber tradition meaning there is no electricity, but visitors are treated to thousands of candles and exquisite meals served under tents with wide-open views of the surrounding desert and Moroccan wilderness. Visitors can enjoy a camel sunset ride, a round of cross-golf (a unique version of cross-country golf), mountain biking and horseback riding.
Place Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh
Place Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh
Marrakesh is one of Morocco’s largest and most popular destinations, and it can feel a bit overwhelming if you’re wandering into the city for the first time. Take a moment to orient yourself, then head to Place Djemaa el-Fna, a square and marketplace located in the medina quarter, which is considered the old city.The name Place Djemaa el-Fna may mean “Assembly of the Dead” or “Place of the Vanished Mosque.” No one is sure of the exact meaning, though locals believe the name refers to an Almoravid mosque, which was destroyed over a century ago. Today, the most important thing about Place Djemaa el-Fna is its relation to Marrakesh. Where there was once a mosque there is now a main square, which locals and visitors share throughout the year.
Place Djemaa el-Fna is bordered by Rue Moulay Ismail and Rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim on the west and east, respectively. To further orient yourself, it helps to know that the Place de Foucauld, Oessabin Mosque and Place Bab Fteuh are also near the square.
The vibe and rhythm of the square changes throughout the day. In daylight hours, Place Djemaa el-Fna square is mostly a marketplace with water sellers, orange juice stalls and snake charmers. As afternoon takes over, the marketplace entertainment changes, the snake charmers leave and Chleuh dancing boys arrive on the scene. Storytellers share tales in Berber or Arabic; peddlers with medicines and magicians also become part of the entertainment. Place Djemaa el-Fna becomes more crowded as evening begins to fall. More food stalls appear when night descends.
Souk Ablueh is located to the east in Place Djemaa el-Fna. The Marrakesh souk is a traditional North African market where daily needs can be met for both locals and tourists. There are a number of tourist shops and cafes in the souk. If you prefer to escape the noise and commotion of the souk, walk to the other side of the square. This area is filled with yet more cafes, hotels and gardens. There are some alleyways which lead into the old city; wander along these for even more shopping opportunities.
Place Djemaa el-Fna is a very busy location that can take more than a day to explore. Consider breaking down your trip to the square into two days. Spend the first day getting acclimated to the sights, sounds and activities found here. Take a day to look through the various shops and determine what you might like to buy when you return on the second day to make your purchases.
If you do not have two days to visit Place Djemaa el-Fna, you may still want to walk around for a few hours before making a purchase. There are numerous wares sold at the souk, so it is possible to find another item you prefer over the first few things you see. The vendors will bargain on the price of their items. They expect this haggling and to refuse is an insult. Begin with a price you think is fair for the item and let your conversation determine the correct price. Never insult a vendor by offering a price that is too low for the quality of work.
One final thing of interest to visitors in the Place Djemaa el-Fna is the street theater, or hoopla, which has been around since 1050 AD. From dawn until midnight a variety of performers including astrologers, healers and belly dancers entertain the crowds. Enjoy a refreshing drink and take a seat at a café so that you can watch a dinner theater show of sorts with these eclectic performers as they move around the square or offer services from a booth.
A Night in Marrakesh’s Place Djemaa el-Fna
A Night in Marrakesh’s Place Djemaa el-Fna
If you’ve read even a little bit about Marrakesh prior to your trip with Journey Beyond Travel to Morocco, you probably know that this cultural hub is bursting with activity, especially in Place Djemaa el-Fna, the city’s main square. For a first-time visitor, approaching the clamor of the square at sunset can feel disorienting. To survey the bustle before joining it, consider starting the evening with a terrace dinner.
Terrace restaurants surround the square, and most specialize in the traditional multi-course spread of salad, tajine or couscous and whole fruit dessert. You’ll pay a bit more to dine here than you would at ground level, but the balcony seating is absolutely worth the extra dirhams.
West of the square, the modestly lit minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque seems to mark a main entrance where a continuous current of silhouettes migrate toward the festivities. Motorbike headlights sprinkle the crowd, weaving through the shadows like dancing fireflies.
Following the migratory path leads your eye to long rows of dinner vendors under a cloud of steam. Though fuzzy from a distance, wandering toward the wafting scents of cumin later in the evening takes you down countless aisles lined with vendors on one side and tent-covered seating on the other.
Men in white chef coats smile warmly as they invite you to dine with snail soup, sheep’s head and other traditional fare. Telling them you’ve already eaten only inspires comments about your thin physique (regardless of whether it’s true) and appeals to eat more. If you still decline, they’ll tell you their assigned vendor number—also printed on a white card, prominently displayed on the stand—and urge you to join them the following night.
Much of the northern part of the square glows from the lighted alleyways of the medina and its outermost vendors. The alleys supply another steady stream of patrons flooding the square, who eventually disperse to the various circles of spectators surrounding storytellers and musicians.
Scattered among the circles are the female vendors of the square. Some sit on stools next to a blanket on the ground that displays incense, candles and similar wares for sale. Others approach you with small photo albums, flashing pictures of hands and ankles decorated in henna, offering to adorn your hand with your name and a personalized message in Arabic. A word of caution: If she catches your hand, she may start writing regardless of whether you’ve agreed to it.
From your terrace perch, you may spot dimly lit blurs deep in the square that seem to attract crowds, but are difficult to decipher from a distance. After meandering past melodies of oboes, drums, finger cymbals, chants and henna calligraphers after dinner, those blurs reveal themselves as carnival games. Pay a few dirham to try to knock down bowling pins with a soccer ball. Or, spend your dirham attempting to win a bottle of soda by lowering a rubber ring attached to a fishing line onto the bottleneck. And by the way, you’re holding a fishing pole and standing five to ten feet away from the prize.
If you’ve read even a little bit about Marrakesh prior to your trip with Journey Beyond Travel to Morocco, you probably know that this cultural hub is bursting with activity, especially in Place Djemaa el-Fna, the city’s main square. For a first-time visitor, approaching the clamor of the square at sunset can feel disorienting. To survey the bustle before joining it, consider starting the evening with a terrace dinner.
Terrace restaurants surround the square, and most specialize in the traditional multi-course spread of salad, tajine or couscous and whole fruit dessert. You’ll pay a bit more to dine here than you would at ground level, but the balcony seating is absolutely worth the extra dirhams.
West of the square, the modestly lit minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque seems to mark a main entrance where a continuous current of silhouettes migrate toward the festivities. Motorbike headlights sprinkle the crowd, weaving through the shadows like dancing fireflies.
Following the migratory path leads your eye to long rows of dinner vendors under a cloud of steam. Though fuzzy from a distance, wandering toward the wafting scents of cumin later in the evening takes you down countless aisles lined with vendors on one side and tent-covered seating on the other.
Men in white chef coats smile warmly as they invite you to dine with snail soup, sheep’s head and other traditional fare. Telling them you’ve already eaten only inspires comments about your thin physique (regardless of whether it’s true) and appeals to eat more. If you still decline, they’ll tell you their assigned vendor number—also printed on a white card, prominently displayed on the stand—and urge you to join them the following night.
Much of the northern part of the square glows from the lighted alleyways of the medina and its outermost vendors. The alleys supply another steady stream of patrons flooding the square, who eventually disperse to the various circles of spectators surrounding storytellers and musicians.
Scattered among the circles are the female vendors of the square. Some sit on stools next to a blanket on the ground that displays incense, candles and similar wares for sale. Others approach you with small photo albums, flashing pictures of hands and ankles decorated in henna, offering to adorn your hand with your name and a personalized message in Arabic. A word of caution: If she catches your hand, she may start writing regardless of whether you’ve agreed to it.
From your terrace perch, you may spot dimly lit blurs deep in the square that seem to attract crowds, but are difficult to decipher from a distance. After meandering past melodies of oboes, drums, finger cymbals, chants and henna calligraphers after dinner, those blurs reveal themselves as carnival games. Pay a few dirham to try to knock down bowling pins with a soccer ball. Or, spend your dirham attempting to win a bottle of soda by lowering a rubber ring attached to a fishing line onto the bottleneck. And by the way, you’re holding a fishing pole and standing five to ten feet away from the prize.
Marrakesh, Morocco
Marrakesh, Morocco – An Insider’s Guide
For many travelers, the ancient, bustling city of Marrakech (Marrakech) is the first stop on a journey through Morocco and a “must see” destination. Marrakesh is a metropolitan oasis pieced together with ancients souks combined with an endless array of shops, cafes, and museum. Even the scooters and motorcycles weaving past pedestrians and donkeys is a sight to behold. Unlike much of the rest of the country, tourism is nothing new in Marrakech. For centuries, Moroccans, foreigners and traders from around the world have been coming here for business, pleasure and a taste of the exotic.
Like most cities in Morocco, Marrakech is divided into two parts: the ancient medina (“old city”) and the new city (“ville nouvelle” – often referred to as “Gueliz” after the name of one of the more popular neighborhoods). In the last few decades, the city has become a tourist hotspot and a top destination for many Europeans; many who have purchased vacation and retirement homes here. Even the famous designer Yves Saint-Laurent spent the latter half of his life in Marrakech. And, recently, former French President Nicolas Sarkozy purchased a home here. In Marrakech, expats wander alongside the locals through the medina streets of the famed “Red City.”
And what’s the best way to enjoy Marrakech? On foot! Be sure to pack a good pair of walking shoes!
Marrakech Medina
In the medina, there are over 800 registered boutique hotels (known as riads or dars and were once Moroccan traditional homes and are now renovated in traditional or modern styles). For most visitors wanting to get a taste of “old Morocco,” staying in a riad or dar can be a destination in and of itself. Choosing the best route and places to stay can be aided (and forgive the plug) with the help of local travel experts who have been putting together Morocco tours (i.e. our team at Journey Beyond Travel) for a long time with a plethora of happy travelers on our roster.
Many of the old homes now used as guesthouses have been restored boasting two intimate to fourteen spacious bedrooms. Most properties have between six and eight rooms – some more luxurious than others. Most offer wonderful personalized service. Generally, owner/operators are on-site, provide breakfast every morning, have menus for lunch and dinner, and can accommodate a variety of requests.
In the medina, all roads seem to lead to the Djemaa al-F’na (Djem Al Fna), the historic main square perpetually bustling with orange juice vendors, food stalls and entertainers of all kinds. Though, for the discerning traveler, some time should be spent enjoying the various souks (markets), monuments and museums that comprise the medina.
Things to do in the Medina:
Take a Guided Tour – Though not the largest medina in Morocco (that distinction belongs to Fez), the Marrakech medina is quite expansive. Most first-time visitors take advantage of the great guide services offered in Marrakech and spend a day learning about the medina, monuments and museums with a local guide. Plan on spending an entire day on your tour if you want to visit all of the major attractions.
Ben Youssef Mosque – Located across from the Marrakech Museum. This mosque was originally built during the Almoravid dynasty. The current mosque dates from the 19th century. However, next to the mosque is the Almoravid Koubba, which features an intact dome and latrines dating from 1117 c.e. Although currently closed indefinitely for renovation, visitors can still view it.
Marrakech Museum – This former palace has been restored and was opened in 1997. A series of photos showing its restoration can be seen near the museum entrance. Most signs and postings are in French. One wing is dedicated entirely to contemporary Moroccan art and includes works by Mohamed Ben Allal, Mohamed Nabili, Abdellatif Zine, and Ahmed Louardiri. Another wing hosts Moroccan textiles and embroidery and Berber jewelry. An old hammam has been transformed into a rotating exposition gallery. There is also a collection of ceramics and daggers. Admission: 50 dirham, 25 dirham for children under 13. (If you are touring the Medersa Ben Youssef and the Marrakech Museum, we recommend buying the combined ticket for the medersa and museum for 60 dirham, 30 dirham for under 13). Website: http://www.museedemarrakech.ma/plan_musee_de_marrakech.htm Open daily, 9h-18h.
Medersa Ben Youssef – This medersa (or “school”) was originally built during the Almoravid period. It was refurbished and expanded by the Saadiens and finally rebuilt by Omar Benjelloun. Throughout the medersa are photos before the recent restoration. Beautiful woodcarving. Tour the old student dormitories – all 132 of them! Admission: 50 dirham, 25 dirham for children under 13. (If you are touring the medersa and the Marrakech museum, we recommend buying the combined ticket for the medersa and museum for 60 dirham, 30 dirham for under 13). Open Daily, 9h-18h.
Dar Bellarj – Located just outside the Medersa Ben Youssef, the Dar Bellarj (literally, “Stork House”) is a beautifully restored animal clinic that now serves as a business front for local artisans. Exhibits vary and entrance is usually free, though sometimes a small fee of 15 dirham or so might be charged, depending on the exhibit. Check out the gift shop for some wonderful ideas for presents to take back home and to support local artisans. Open Daily.
Museum of Photography – Photos from 1870 – 1950. This stellar museum mostly houses black & white photos of Morocco and changes its theme every three months. Although over 5,000 original prints are on hand, only a certain number can be displayed at any given time. Worth a quick sit down is a documentary from 1957 about the Berbers and displays the 1st time they were filmed in color. The upstairs terrace offers stunning views and a relaxing space to process all that you’ve seen. 80 dhs for lunch – typical Moroccan fare. Website: http://www.maisondelaphotographie.ma Admission to Museum: 40 dirham. Under 16 free. Open daily from 9:30am – 7pm.
Bahia Palace – This palace was originally built for the concubine Bahia, a favorite of Ba’Ahmed’s harem, from 1866 to 1894. Parts of the James Stewart film, The Man Who Knew Too Much, were filmed here. Be prepared to strain your neck looking up at the beautifully maintained woodcarving, geometric painting and stuccowork throughout ceilings of the palace. Get there early to avoid crowds and have a more tranquil stroll through the palace. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham. Open daily from 9am – 4:30pm.
El Badi Palace – Sometimes called “Badia” palace, this ruin of a palace is interesting to visit after a tour of the Bahia Palace to get an interesting view of history preserved and unpreserved. El Badi Palace has a long history of being looted and sacked. Construction started in 1578 by Sultan Al Mansour Addahbi of the Saadien dynasty. In the 17th century, the palace was stripped of materials and marble rumored to be used in the royal palace in Meknes. Now, the coos of pigeons and clacking bills of mating storks enliven this place. There are some projects under way in the palace now to renovate some areas and develop gardens. Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham.
Saadien Tombs – Originally these tombs were walled in by Moulay Ismail in the late seventeenth century and “rediscovered” by the French in 1917. The rumor is that the French rediscovered the tombs while conducting an aerial survey of Marrakech. The locals say otherwise. Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham.
Dar Si Said – A specious house that has been remodeled and serves as a museum for different textiles, arms and jewelry. A simple, nice museum, though many of the displays in Dar Si Said are similar to the Marrakech Museum. Website: http://www.maroc.net/museums/marrakesh1.html Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm except Tuesdays.
Menara Gardens – The Menara Gardens are not a “must see” destination in Marrakech, though the 100-hectare giant olive grove might be nice for a family picnic. There is a nice terrace view from the former military building. Proceeds go to the Cultural Foundation for Restoration. A large pool dating from 11th century is interesting enough given that soldiers were trained to swim there. However, swimming today is not allowed nor encouraged. Camel rides are available for 20 – 100 dirham for a twenty-minute ride, depending on your bargaining skills. Open daily from 7am – 5pm. Entrance free. 10 dirham to tour the small building with a terrace.
Palmeraie – Long the home of the upscale, the Marrakech Palmeraie consists of a large grove of palm trees outside of the medina. Throughout this grove, there are many activities for the family. Website: http://www.palmeraiemarrakech.com A petit taxi can get you there for about 35 – 50 dirham. Camel rides of twenty minutes can be had for 50 dirham. For those looking for a round of golf while on vacation in Marrakech, this is the place!
Restaurants
As always, we recommend taking a few minutes to check out the Best Restaurants of Morocco for the most up-to-date information on restaurants. Restaurants, especially in Marrakech, are continually in rotation and the best restaurant today could be tomorrow’s has-been. Here are a few of our favorite restaurants to get you started.
Bakchich Café – Right off the Jemaa al-F’na on Rue des Banques behind Café France, this chicly styled café features the rare breakfast for those venturing out before 9am. Breakfast for 25 dhs, lunch 20-30 dhs. Regular Moroccan fare. Free wifi. Cool recycled decor.
Café des Epices – About 30 – 50 dhs for lunch. Open everyday from about 10am – midnight. Stop in for a tea, coffee or just a bottle of water. A very popular stop and a nice break from the Jemaa al-F’na in the medina. On the plaza, or “rahba,” outside the café, they used to have auctions, sell spices, snails and slaves.
Chez Mazzouz – Along this same plaza is a “snack” place with nothing particularly special, but it does have WIFI, which can be helpful for those needing to hop online. This is a nice substitute for Café des Epices if the café is too crowded.
Earth Café – Located just off the Djemma al-Fna on Darb Zeouak, there are some great vegetarian options for lunch, brunch and dinner. Cooking sessions start daily at 11am for a maximum of two people for 200 dhs. They have opened another location near the Musée Dar Si Said. Open from 10am – late. Visit Earth Cafe.
Henna Café – Located near the taxi waiting area at Dar El Basha near Bab Doukala, Henna Café is the place you want to be if you want to travel ethically. Henna Café opened in November 2011 and is a sweet little place run by the very lovely Mohammed who is very genuine and competent. Stop in for a cup of tea or coffee or have a simple lunch with dessert or just a sandwich for around 20 dirham. Henna Café is a non-profit cafe so all profits go to local causes. Currently the café offers free English lessons to Moroccan women so that they can find employment. Visit Henna Cafe. Open from 10am – midnight or so.
Kosybar – Located between the Bahia and El-Badi palaces in the Jewish Mellah plaza or “place des fer blantier.” Great if you want to stop for a beer, wine or cocktail. 100 – 400 dhs. Lunch and dinner. Visit Kozybar.
Ksar Es Saoussan – Fxed menu starts at 350. Wine/beer is included, but there is the usual limited menu of beer, wine, and spirits. Local specialties are very well done – enjoy couscous Marrakechi and pastilla with pigeon and almonds in a beautifully restored riad with a bit of colonialist vibe. Waiters are dressed as touaregs. Unless you are really hungry, the “petit diner” should suffice. +212 (0) 524 44 06 32. Reservations highly recommended. Visit Ksar Es Saoussan.
Le Foundouk – Traditional Moroccan Cuisine with great service right in the heart of the medina. Open daily from 12pm – midnight. Closed Mondays. About 50 dhs for lunch and 100 dhs for dinner. +212 (0) 524 37 81 90. Reservations highly recommended. Website: Visit Le Foundouk.
Le Marrakchi – Across from the market and adjacent to the newspaper stand. With two main courses and wine running at around 300 dhs, this is one of the most posh restaurants in the square. The food is not necessarily better than elsewhere, but it is one of the few restaurants that serve alcohol. It also has a completely enclosed upstairs terrace, which is ideal for views of the square when the weather is bad. Visit Le Marrakchi.
Maison MK – Hidden in the medina, this chic hotel offers a great cooking course and serves a gourmet dinner at 8 pm. Reservations a few days in advance a must. Phone: +212 (0) 524 37 61 73. Visit Maison MK.
Un déjeuner à Marrakech – a bit more upscale with a French bistro style/Salon de thé style. A coffee and a snack can will cost anywhere between 50 – 100 dhs. A short walk from the Djemma al-F’na on “Place Douar Graoua.” Free WIFI. No smoking. Open from 10am to 11pm.
Villa Flore – in the medina with some wonderful vegetarian options including a mille-feuille of eggplant and potatoes drizzled with vinaigrette, olive oil and rosemary. Seasonal menu. Nice ambiance, good service, though a bit posh. Appetizers start at 60 dhs, entrees at 100 dhs and desert around 50 dhs. Smoking is allowed. French style, portions. Save room for dessert! Website: Visit Villa Flore.
Eating at Djemaa El-Fna
To eat well in Marrakech, you can always do what many of the locals and Moroccan tourists do – eat at the food stalls right in the square! Many people are put off by some of the sellers and have the idea that these are “unsafe” to eat at. In fact, these food stalls are well regulated by the local authorities and have been here serving food in the famed Djemaa el-F’na for years! Prepare to bargain a bit for your food, but a bowl of harira soup should cost around 10 dhs and lunch or dinner can be as much as 100 dhs, depending on how much you want to eat! Drinks can be a bit expensive and some stalls will offer free mint tea.
Next to the food stalls are the fresh orange juice sellers. You can try it with a bit of salt like some of the locals, but watch out for sellers that water down the juice with tap water. Blood orange juice costs 10 – 12 dhs and a regular orange juice should cost around 4-6 dhs for a glass, though some people prefer to bring a small plastic water bottle and have it filled for around 10 dhs because many of the vendors don’t do a good job of cleaning the glasses. Some will sell you a plastic cup for 1 dh. Just make sure you agree on the price before you drink!
Nightlife
Pacha – The biggest nightclub in Africa. Around 250 dhs to get in. Drinks are more overpriced than usual and smoking is allowed. Some of the most famous DJs from around the world spin here. Open from 11pm. Visit Pacha.
Theatro – A bit smaller than Pacha, but the same type of nightclub concept. Open from 11pm. Visit Theatro.
Getting Away
Supratour – Buy your tickets a day or two before your departure date from the Supratour Station located behind the train station. Next to the ticket office is an office titled “Enregistrement Bagages.” If you are traveling with anything more than a small backpack, you will have to buy a separate ticket for each item of luggage. Each bag will set you back 5 dirham. They don’t usually tell you this when you buy your bus ticket, but you will be reminded when you try to store your larger bags beneath the bus.
Day Trips
Ourika and Oukaimeden are two popular day trips from Marrakech. In Ourika, you can stroll through rose gardens and enjoy a great view over the valley from the Atlas Mountains. Escape the heat of the city and, on the way, stop in Setti Fatma for a hike up to one of three waterfalls feeding into each other, falling down the mountain or stop at an overlook and have a mint tea and pack a picnic. There are a few cafes and restaurants along the valley drive, all serving the same subpar Moroccan fare, tajines etc, and overpriced. Best time to go is in spring when the cherries, almonds and roses are all in bloom.
Of note, there are several women’s cooperatives along the way that sell various products made from Argan – soap, lotions, cooking oils, etc. Cooperative Ourika is one of our favorites, located on the riverside of the road through Ourika in the village of Oulmes. Email here: Arganisme@gmail.com
For both Ourika and Oukaimeden, we mostly outline these locations since most travelers can work out getting here and even navigating on their own. To really explore the mountains and get away from touristy regions, it’s best to have an arranged trip that will allow you to walk, trek, visit villages, dine with a local family, and do other cultural activities. Another plug for what we do: Journey Beyond Travel can help you go beyond the destination on one of our many unique and customized trips.
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For many travelers, the ancient, bustling city of Marrakech (Marrakech) is the first stop on a journey through Morocco and a “must see” destination. Marrakesh is a metropolitan oasis pieced together with ancients souks combined with an endless array of shops, cafes, and museum. Even the scooters and motorcycles weaving past pedestrians and donkeys is a sight to behold. Unlike much of the rest of the country, tourism is nothing new in Marrakech. For centuries, Moroccans, foreigners and traders from around the world have been coming here for business, pleasure and a taste of the exotic.
Like most cities in Morocco, Marrakech is divided into two parts: the ancient medina (“old city”) and the new city (“ville nouvelle” – often referred to as “Gueliz” after the name of one of the more popular neighborhoods). In the last few decades, the city has become a tourist hotspot and a top destination for many Europeans; many who have purchased vacation and retirement homes here. Even the famous designer Yves Saint-Laurent spent the latter half of his life in Marrakech. And, recently, former French President Nicolas Sarkozy purchased a home here. In Marrakech, expats wander alongside the locals through the medina streets of the famed “Red City.”
And what’s the best way to enjoy Marrakech? On foot! Be sure to pack a good pair of walking shoes!
Marrakech Medina
In the medina, there are over 800 registered boutique hotels (known as riads or dars and were once Moroccan traditional homes and are now renovated in traditional or modern styles). For most visitors wanting to get a taste of “old Morocco,” staying in a riad or dar can be a destination in and of itself. Choosing the best route and places to stay can be aided (and forgive the plug) with the help of local travel experts who have been putting together Morocco tours (i.e. our team at Journey Beyond Travel) for a long time with a plethora of happy travelers on our roster.
Many of the old homes now used as guesthouses have been restored boasting two intimate to fourteen spacious bedrooms. Most properties have between six and eight rooms – some more luxurious than others. Most offer wonderful personalized service. Generally, owner/operators are on-site, provide breakfast every morning, have menus for lunch and dinner, and can accommodate a variety of requests.
In the medina, all roads seem to lead to the Djemaa al-F’na (Djem Al Fna), the historic main square perpetually bustling with orange juice vendors, food stalls and entertainers of all kinds. Though, for the discerning traveler, some time should be spent enjoying the various souks (markets), monuments and museums that comprise the medina.
Things to do in the Medina:
Take a Guided Tour – Though not the largest medina in Morocco (that distinction belongs to Fez), the Marrakech medina is quite expansive. Most first-time visitors take advantage of the great guide services offered in Marrakech and spend a day learning about the medina, monuments and museums with a local guide. Plan on spending an entire day on your tour if you want to visit all of the major attractions.
Ben Youssef Mosque – Located across from the Marrakech Museum. This mosque was originally built during the Almoravid dynasty. The current mosque dates from the 19th century. However, next to the mosque is the Almoravid Koubba, which features an intact dome and latrines dating from 1117 c.e. Although currently closed indefinitely for renovation, visitors can still view it.
Marrakech Museum – This former palace has been restored and was opened in 1997. A series of photos showing its restoration can be seen near the museum entrance. Most signs and postings are in French. One wing is dedicated entirely to contemporary Moroccan art and includes works by Mohamed Ben Allal, Mohamed Nabili, Abdellatif Zine, and Ahmed Louardiri. Another wing hosts Moroccan textiles and embroidery and Berber jewelry. An old hammam has been transformed into a rotating exposition gallery. There is also a collection of ceramics and daggers. Admission: 50 dirham, 25 dirham for children under 13. (If you are touring the Medersa Ben Youssef and the Marrakech Museum, we recommend buying the combined ticket for the medersa and museum for 60 dirham, 30 dirham for under 13). Website: http://www.museedemarrakech.ma/plan_musee_de_marrakech.htm Open daily, 9h-18h.
Medersa Ben Youssef – This medersa (or “school”) was originally built during the Almoravid period. It was refurbished and expanded by the Saadiens and finally rebuilt by Omar Benjelloun. Throughout the medersa are photos before the recent restoration. Beautiful woodcarving. Tour the old student dormitories – all 132 of them! Admission: 50 dirham, 25 dirham for children under 13. (If you are touring the medersa and the Marrakech museum, we recommend buying the combined ticket for the medersa and museum for 60 dirham, 30 dirham for under 13). Open Daily, 9h-18h.
Dar Bellarj – Located just outside the Medersa Ben Youssef, the Dar Bellarj (literally, “Stork House”) is a beautifully restored animal clinic that now serves as a business front for local artisans. Exhibits vary and entrance is usually free, though sometimes a small fee of 15 dirham or so might be charged, depending on the exhibit. Check out the gift shop for some wonderful ideas for presents to take back home and to support local artisans. Open Daily.
Museum of Photography – Photos from 1870 – 1950. This stellar museum mostly houses black & white photos of Morocco and changes its theme every three months. Although over 5,000 original prints are on hand, only a certain number can be displayed at any given time. Worth a quick sit down is a documentary from 1957 about the Berbers and displays the 1st time they were filmed in color. The upstairs terrace offers stunning views and a relaxing space to process all that you’ve seen. 80 dhs for lunch – typical Moroccan fare. Website: http://www.maisondelaphotographie.ma Admission to Museum: 40 dirham. Under 16 free. Open daily from 9:30am – 7pm.
Bahia Palace – This palace was originally built for the concubine Bahia, a favorite of Ba’Ahmed’s harem, from 1866 to 1894. Parts of the James Stewart film, The Man Who Knew Too Much, were filmed here. Be prepared to strain your neck looking up at the beautifully maintained woodcarving, geometric painting and stuccowork throughout ceilings of the palace. Get there early to avoid crowds and have a more tranquil stroll through the palace. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham. Open daily from 9am – 4:30pm.
El Badi Palace – Sometimes called “Badia” palace, this ruin of a palace is interesting to visit after a tour of the Bahia Palace to get an interesting view of history preserved and unpreserved. El Badi Palace has a long history of being looted and sacked. Construction started in 1578 by Sultan Al Mansour Addahbi of the Saadien dynasty. In the 17th century, the palace was stripped of materials and marble rumored to be used in the royal palace in Meknes. Now, the coos of pigeons and clacking bills of mating storks enliven this place. There are some projects under way in the palace now to renovate some areas and develop gardens. Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham.
Saadien Tombs – Originally these tombs were walled in by Moulay Ismail in the late seventeenth century and “rediscovered” by the French in 1917. The rumor is that the French rediscovered the tombs while conducting an aerial survey of Marrakech. The locals say otherwise. Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham.
Dar Si Said – A specious house that has been remodeled and serves as a museum for different textiles, arms and jewelry. A simple, nice museum, though many of the displays in Dar Si Said are similar to the Marrakech Museum. Website: http://www.maroc.net/museums/marrakesh1.html Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm except Tuesdays.
Menara Gardens – The Menara Gardens are not a “must see” destination in Marrakech, though the 100-hectare giant olive grove might be nice for a family picnic. There is a nice terrace view from the former military building. Proceeds go to the Cultural Foundation for Restoration. A large pool dating from 11th century is interesting enough given that soldiers were trained to swim there. However, swimming today is not allowed nor encouraged. Camel rides are available for 20 – 100 dirham for a twenty-minute ride, depending on your bargaining skills. Open daily from 7am – 5pm. Entrance free. 10 dirham to tour the small building with a terrace.
Palmeraie – Long the home of the upscale, the Marrakech Palmeraie consists of a large grove of palm trees outside of the medina. Throughout this grove, there are many activities for the family. Website: http://www.palmeraiemarrakech.com A petit taxi can get you there for about 35 – 50 dirham. Camel rides of twenty minutes can be had for 50 dirham. For those looking for a round of golf while on vacation in Marrakech, this is the place!
Restaurants
As always, we recommend taking a few minutes to check out the Best Restaurants of Morocco for the most up-to-date information on restaurants. Restaurants, especially in Marrakech, are continually in rotation and the best restaurant today could be tomorrow’s has-been. Here are a few of our favorite restaurants to get you started.
Bakchich Café – Right off the Jemaa al-F’na on Rue des Banques behind Café France, this chicly styled café features the rare breakfast for those venturing out before 9am. Breakfast for 25 dhs, lunch 20-30 dhs. Regular Moroccan fare. Free wifi. Cool recycled decor.
Café des Epices – About 30 – 50 dhs for lunch. Open everyday from about 10am – midnight. Stop in for a tea, coffee or just a bottle of water. A very popular stop and a nice break from the Jemaa al-F’na in the medina. On the plaza, or “rahba,” outside the café, they used to have auctions, sell spices, snails and slaves.
Chez Mazzouz – Along this same plaza is a “snack” place with nothing particularly special, but it does have WIFI, which can be helpful for those needing to hop online. This is a nice substitute for Café des Epices if the café is too crowded.
Earth Café – Located just off the Djemma al-Fna on Darb Zeouak, there are some great vegetarian options for lunch, brunch and dinner. Cooking sessions start daily at 11am for a maximum of two people for 200 dhs. They have opened another location near the Musée Dar Si Said. Open from 10am – late. Visit Earth Cafe.
Henna Café – Located near the taxi waiting area at Dar El Basha near Bab Doukala, Henna Café is the place you want to be if you want to travel ethically. Henna Café opened in November 2011 and is a sweet little place run by the very lovely Mohammed who is very genuine and competent. Stop in for a cup of tea or coffee or have a simple lunch with dessert or just a sandwich for around 20 dirham. Henna Café is a non-profit cafe so all profits go to local causes. Currently the café offers free English lessons to Moroccan women so that they can find employment. Visit Henna Cafe. Open from 10am – midnight or so.
Kosybar – Located between the Bahia and El-Badi palaces in the Jewish Mellah plaza or “place des fer blantier.” Great if you want to stop for a beer, wine or cocktail. 100 – 400 dhs. Lunch and dinner. Visit Kozybar.
Ksar Es Saoussan – Fxed menu starts at 350. Wine/beer is included, but there is the usual limited menu of beer, wine, and spirits. Local specialties are very well done – enjoy couscous Marrakechi and pastilla with pigeon and almonds in a beautifully restored riad with a bit of colonialist vibe. Waiters are dressed as touaregs. Unless you are really hungry, the “petit diner” should suffice. +212 (0) 524 44 06 32. Reservations highly recommended. Visit Ksar Es Saoussan.
Le Foundouk – Traditional Moroccan Cuisine with great service right in the heart of the medina. Open daily from 12pm – midnight. Closed Mondays. About 50 dhs for lunch and 100 dhs for dinner. +212 (0) 524 37 81 90. Reservations highly recommended. Website: Visit Le Foundouk.
Le Marrakchi – Across from the market and adjacent to the newspaper stand. With two main courses and wine running at around 300 dhs, this is one of the most posh restaurants in the square. The food is not necessarily better than elsewhere, but it is one of the few restaurants that serve alcohol. It also has a completely enclosed upstairs terrace, which is ideal for views of the square when the weather is bad. Visit Le Marrakchi.
Maison MK – Hidden in the medina, this chic hotel offers a great cooking course and serves a gourmet dinner at 8 pm. Reservations a few days in advance a must. Phone: +212 (0) 524 37 61 73. Visit Maison MK.
Un déjeuner à Marrakech – a bit more upscale with a French bistro style/Salon de thé style. A coffee and a snack can will cost anywhere between 50 – 100 dhs. A short walk from the Djemma al-F’na on “Place Douar Graoua.” Free WIFI. No smoking. Open from 10am to 11pm.
Villa Flore – in the medina with some wonderful vegetarian options including a mille-feuille of eggplant and potatoes drizzled with vinaigrette, olive oil and rosemary. Seasonal menu. Nice ambiance, good service, though a bit posh. Appetizers start at 60 dhs, entrees at 100 dhs and desert around 50 dhs. Smoking is allowed. French style, portions. Save room for dessert! Website: Visit Villa Flore.
Eating at Djemaa El-Fna
To eat well in Marrakech, you can always do what many of the locals and Moroccan tourists do – eat at the food stalls right in the square! Many people are put off by some of the sellers and have the idea that these are “unsafe” to eat at. In fact, these food stalls are well regulated by the local authorities and have been here serving food in the famed Djemaa el-F’na for years! Prepare to bargain a bit for your food, but a bowl of harira soup should cost around 10 dhs and lunch or dinner can be as much as 100 dhs, depending on how much you want to eat! Drinks can be a bit expensive and some stalls will offer free mint tea.
Next to the food stalls are the fresh orange juice sellers. You can try it with a bit of salt like some of the locals, but watch out for sellers that water down the juice with tap water. Blood orange juice costs 10 – 12 dhs and a regular orange juice should cost around 4-6 dhs for a glass, though some people prefer to bring a small plastic water bottle and have it filled for around 10 dhs because many of the vendors don’t do a good job of cleaning the glasses. Some will sell you a plastic cup for 1 dh. Just make sure you agree on the price before you drink!
Nightlife
Pacha – The biggest nightclub in Africa. Around 250 dhs to get in. Drinks are more overpriced than usual and smoking is allowed. Some of the most famous DJs from around the world spin here. Open from 11pm. Visit Pacha.
Theatro – A bit smaller than Pacha, but the same type of nightclub concept. Open from 11pm. Visit Theatro.
Getting Away
Supratour – Buy your tickets a day or two before your departure date from the Supratour Station located behind the train station. Next to the ticket office is an office titled “Enregistrement Bagages.” If you are traveling with anything more than a small backpack, you will have to buy a separate ticket for each item of luggage. Each bag will set you back 5 dirham. They don’t usually tell you this when you buy your bus ticket, but you will be reminded when you try to store your larger bags beneath the bus.
Day Trips
Ourika and Oukaimeden are two popular day trips from Marrakech. In Ourika, you can stroll through rose gardens and enjoy a great view over the valley from the Atlas Mountains. Escape the heat of the city and, on the way, stop in Setti Fatma for a hike up to one of three waterfalls feeding into each other, falling down the mountain or stop at an overlook and have a mint tea and pack a picnic. There are a few cafes and restaurants along the valley drive, all serving the same subpar Moroccan fare, tajines etc, and overpriced. Best time to go is in spring when the cherries, almonds and roses are all in bloom.
Of note, there are several women’s cooperatives along the way that sell various products made from Argan – soap, lotions, cooking oils, etc. Cooperative Ourika is one of our favorites, located on the riverside of the road through Ourika in the village of Oulmes. Email here: Arganisme@gmail.com
For both Ourika and Oukaimeden, we mostly outline these locations since most travelers can work out getting here and even navigating on their own. To really explore the mountains and get away from touristy regions, it’s best to have an arranged trip that will allow you to walk, trek, visit villages, dine with a local family, and do other cultural activities. Another plug for what we do: Journey Beyond Travel can help you go beyond the destination on one of our many unique and customized trips.
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Etiquette in Morocco
Etiquette in Morocco
Moroccan people are among the most hospitable people in the world. They are warm, open and make fast friends with everyone. It is not unlikely to receive an invitation to their home just moments after you meet them. However, Moroccans, like all other people have their customs and taboos. It is good to know how to interact with them and follow proper etiquette while moving about the country.
Morocco, though considered in the west, has its own cultural values and norms apart from the West. What may be OK to do on the beach in Spain may actually be illegal just forty-five minutes south in Morocco. If you know one thing about Morocco, you probably know that it is a Muslim country, or perhaps, you know it’s an Arab country. Given this, there are certain ways to behave especially in public in the country where Allah watches all. If you’re planning a Morocco trip with a local travel agency and your itinerary has you venturing through city and village alike, keep in mind these simple rules of etiquette.
The very first heads-up goes to all you who prefer the spaghetti strap over the long sleeve jumper. Mostly, it’s the ladies we’re talking about here, though guys generally dress conservatively as well, unless you’re at the beach (then all the rules are bent). Ladies, be sure to cover any bare skin, above your ankles and above your wrists. In cities like Rabat and Casablanca, however, these rules are also slightly bent, especially if you’re dressed smartly for the office or a night on the town.
Whatever you do, though, don’t dress this way in the Berber villages of the Atlas Mountains. If your esteem comes from getting those heels on and limping over donkey droppings and rolling rocks, you may not fit in well here. Some women even wear shawls or a headscarf, though this also depends on where you are geographically. Whatever the case, conservative dress will always be appreciated. Guys, you can pretty much dress how you want, though most Moroccans, whether rich or poor, try to spruce up when heading out of doors. Keep this in mind before sporting those Under Armor shorts and cut-off T.
Another good rule of thumb when traveling to Morocco is to learn to do everything with your right hand. The left hand, as you may not know, is reserved for bathroom duties and other cleaning chores. The right hand, however, is used to shake hands with, eat with and pretty much do everything else with. Even if you’re left handed, give it a good fake here. Also, a greeting is sometimes a handshake but more often than not a small kiss to both the left and right side of the cheek is a proper greeting. Often, men will not do this with women their senior. We recommend duck taping your left hand a week or two before coming so you get used to this habit if you find it impossible to get used to.
When you’re invited over to someone’s house for dinner—and it happens to everyone—you’ll need to know a few tricks of the trade. For starters, you’ll need to get used to sitting around a communal table. On this table, the food is often served in one large bowl to everyone at once. Essentially, you can eat and even double-dip out of your section of the bowl. How do you know your section? It’s easy: cut the bowl with your eyes into fours, sixes or eighths—the number equal to the people sitting round the table. That “triangle” then is your personal trough. You can eat as much as you want but be sure to stay within the boundaries. The meat is often in the middle of the dish and can be grabbed with hunks of hobbs (bread) and eaten at will.
One last counsel of advice is to make sure you bring a gift when you’re invited to someone’s house. One communalist gift should do nicely. Before venturing over for dinner, get a box of pastries or other sweet. Moroccans love a good sugary snack. If you’d like to prevent teeth from rotting out, you can bring a gift(s) for the child of the family. Sometimes the gifts are open on sight or opened later once you leave. This all depends on familiarity. Once you enter the house, be sure to remove your shoes and set them by the door. If any one else enters the room, stand up and give them notice and then continue eating. Moroccans are very humble and friendly people who have a general decorum to follow. You can easily do the same now. From the north sea to the south of the Sahara Desert on a tour you’ll have a good head start to integrating well into a society that loves new visitors.
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Moroccan people are among the most hospitable people in the world. They are warm, open and make fast friends with everyone. It is not unlikely to receive an invitation to their home just moments after you meet them. However, Moroccans, like all other people have their customs and taboos. It is good to know how to interact with them and follow proper etiquette while moving about the country.
Morocco, though considered in the west, has its own cultural values and norms apart from the West. What may be OK to do on the beach in Spain may actually be illegal just forty-five minutes south in Morocco. If you know one thing about Morocco, you probably know that it is a Muslim country, or perhaps, you know it’s an Arab country. Given this, there are certain ways to behave especially in public in the country where Allah watches all. If you’re planning a Morocco trip with a local travel agency and your itinerary has you venturing through city and village alike, keep in mind these simple rules of etiquette.
The very first heads-up goes to all you who prefer the spaghetti strap over the long sleeve jumper. Mostly, it’s the ladies we’re talking about here, though guys generally dress conservatively as well, unless you’re at the beach (then all the rules are bent). Ladies, be sure to cover any bare skin, above your ankles and above your wrists. In cities like Rabat and Casablanca, however, these rules are also slightly bent, especially if you’re dressed smartly for the office or a night on the town.
Whatever you do, though, don’t dress this way in the Berber villages of the Atlas Mountains. If your esteem comes from getting those heels on and limping over donkey droppings and rolling rocks, you may not fit in well here. Some women even wear shawls or a headscarf, though this also depends on where you are geographically. Whatever the case, conservative dress will always be appreciated. Guys, you can pretty much dress how you want, though most Moroccans, whether rich or poor, try to spruce up when heading out of doors. Keep this in mind before sporting those Under Armor shorts and cut-off T.
Another good rule of thumb when traveling to Morocco is to learn to do everything with your right hand. The left hand, as you may not know, is reserved for bathroom duties and other cleaning chores. The right hand, however, is used to shake hands with, eat with and pretty much do everything else with. Even if you’re left handed, give it a good fake here. Also, a greeting is sometimes a handshake but more often than not a small kiss to both the left and right side of the cheek is a proper greeting. Often, men will not do this with women their senior. We recommend duck taping your left hand a week or two before coming so you get used to this habit if you find it impossible to get used to.
When you’re invited over to someone’s house for dinner—and it happens to everyone—you’ll need to know a few tricks of the trade. For starters, you’ll need to get used to sitting around a communal table. On this table, the food is often served in one large bowl to everyone at once. Essentially, you can eat and even double-dip out of your section of the bowl. How do you know your section? It’s easy: cut the bowl with your eyes into fours, sixes or eighths—the number equal to the people sitting round the table. That “triangle” then is your personal trough. You can eat as much as you want but be sure to stay within the boundaries. The meat is often in the middle of the dish and can be grabbed with hunks of hobbs (bread) and eaten at will.
One last counsel of advice is to make sure you bring a gift when you’re invited to someone’s house. One communalist gift should do nicely. Before venturing over for dinner, get a box of pastries or other sweet. Moroccans love a good sugary snack. If you’d like to prevent teeth from rotting out, you can bring a gift(s) for the child of the family. Sometimes the gifts are open on sight or opened later once you leave. This all depends on familiarity. Once you enter the house, be sure to remove your shoes and set them by the door. If any one else enters the room, stand up and give them notice and then continue eating. Moroccans are very humble and friendly people who have a general decorum to follow. You can easily do the same now. From the north sea to the south of the Sahara Desert on a tour you’ll have a good head start to integrating well into a society that loves new visitors.
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