Marrakesh, Morocco – An Insider’s Guide
For many travelers, the ancient, bustling city of Marrakech (Marrakech) is the first stop on a journey through Morocco and a “must see” destination. Marrakesh is a metropolitan oasis pieced together with ancients souks combined with an endless array of shops, cafes, and museum. Even the scooters and motorcycles weaving past pedestrians and donkeys is a sight to behold. Unlike much of the rest of the country, tourism is nothing new in Marrakech. For centuries, Moroccans, foreigners and traders from around the world have been coming here for business, pleasure and a taste of the exotic.
Like most cities in Morocco, Marrakech is divided into two parts: the ancient medina (“old city”) and the new city (“ville nouvelle” – often referred to as “Gueliz” after the name of one of the more popular neighborhoods). In the last few decades, the city has become a tourist hotspot and a top destination for many Europeans; many who have purchased vacation and retirement homes here. Even the famous designer Yves Saint-Laurent spent the latter half of his life in Marrakech. And, recently, former French President Nicolas Sarkozy purchased a home here. In Marrakech, expats wander alongside the locals through the medina streets of the famed “Red City.”
And what’s the best way to enjoy Marrakech? On foot! Be sure to pack a good pair of walking shoes!
Marrakech Medina
In the medina, there are over 800 registered boutique hotels (known as riads or dars and were once Moroccan traditional homes and are now renovated in traditional or modern styles). For most visitors wanting to get a taste of “old Morocco,” staying in a riad or dar can be a destination in and of itself. Choosing the best route and places to stay can be aided (and forgive the plug) with the help of local travel experts who have been putting together Morocco tours (i.e. our team at Journey Beyond Travel) for a long time with a plethora of happy travelers on our roster.
Many of the old homes now used as guesthouses have been restored boasting two intimate to fourteen spacious bedrooms. Most properties have between six and eight rooms – some more luxurious than others. Most offer wonderful personalized service. Generally, owner/operators are on-site, provide breakfast every morning, have menus for lunch and dinner, and can accommodate a variety of requests.
In the medina, all roads seem to lead to the Djemaa al-F’na (Djem Al Fna), the historic main square perpetually bustling with orange juice vendors, food stalls and entertainers of all kinds. Though, for the discerning traveler, some time should be spent enjoying the various souks (markets), monuments and museums that comprise the medina.
Things to do in the Medina:
Take a Guided Tour – Though not the largest medina in Morocco (that distinction belongs to Fez), the Marrakech medina is quite expansive. Most first-time visitors take advantage of the great guide services offered in Marrakech and spend a day learning about the medina, monuments and museums with a local guide. Plan on spending an entire day on your tour if you want to visit all of the major attractions.
Ben Youssef Mosque – Located across from the Marrakech Museum. This mosque was originally built during the Almoravid dynasty. The current mosque dates from the 19th century. However, next to the mosque is the Almoravid Koubba, which features an intact dome and latrines dating from 1117 c.e. Although currently closed indefinitely for renovation, visitors can still view it.
Marrakech Museum – This former palace has been restored and was opened in 1997. A series of photos showing its restoration can be seen near the museum entrance. Most signs and postings are in French. One wing is dedicated entirely to contemporary Moroccan art and includes works by Mohamed Ben Allal, Mohamed Nabili, Abdellatif Zine, and Ahmed Louardiri. Another wing hosts Moroccan textiles and embroidery and Berber jewelry. An old hammam has been transformed into a rotating exposition gallery. There is also a collection of ceramics and daggers. Admission: 50 dirham, 25 dirham for children under 13. (If you are touring the Medersa Ben Youssef and the Marrakech Museum, we recommend buying the combined ticket for the medersa and museum for 60 dirham, 30 dirham for under 13). Website: http://www.museedemarrakech.ma/plan_musee_de_marrakech.htm Open daily, 9h-18h.
Medersa Ben Youssef – This medersa (or “school”) was originally built during the Almoravid period. It was refurbished and expanded by the Saadiens and finally rebuilt by Omar Benjelloun. Throughout the medersa are photos before the recent restoration. Beautiful woodcarving. Tour the old student dormitories – all 132 of them! Admission: 50 dirham, 25 dirham for children under 13. (If you are touring the medersa and the Marrakech museum, we recommend buying the combined ticket for the medersa and museum for 60 dirham, 30 dirham for under 13). Open Daily, 9h-18h.
Dar Bellarj – Located just outside the Medersa Ben Youssef, the Dar Bellarj (literally, “Stork House”) is a beautifully restored animal clinic that now serves as a business front for local artisans. Exhibits vary and entrance is usually free, though sometimes a small fee of 15 dirham or so might be charged, depending on the exhibit. Check out the gift shop for some wonderful ideas for presents to take back home and to support local artisans. Open Daily.
Museum of Photography – Photos from 1870 – 1950. This stellar museum mostly houses black & white photos of Morocco and changes its theme every three months. Although over 5,000 original prints are on hand, only a certain number can be displayed at any given time. Worth a quick sit down is a documentary from 1957 about the Berbers and displays the 1st time they were filmed in color. The upstairs terrace offers stunning views and a relaxing space to process all that you’ve seen. 80 dhs for lunch – typical Moroccan fare. Website: http://www.maisondelaphotographie.ma Admission to Museum: 40 dirham. Under 16 free. Open daily from 9:30am – 7pm.
Bahia Palace – This palace was originally built for the concubine Bahia, a favorite of Ba’Ahmed’s harem, from 1866 to 1894. Parts of the James Stewart film, The Man Who Knew Too Much, were filmed here. Be prepared to strain your neck looking up at the beautifully maintained woodcarving, geometric painting and stuccowork throughout ceilings of the palace. Get there early to avoid crowds and have a more tranquil stroll through the palace. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham. Open daily from 9am – 4:30pm.
El Badi Palace – Sometimes called “Badia” palace, this ruin of a palace is interesting to visit after a tour of the Bahia Palace to get an interesting view of history preserved and unpreserved. El Badi Palace has a long history of being looted and sacked. Construction started in 1578 by Sultan Al Mansour Addahbi of the Saadien dynasty. In the 17th century, the palace was stripped of materials and marble rumored to be used in the royal palace in Meknes. Now, the coos of pigeons and clacking bills of mating storks enliven this place. There are some projects under way in the palace now to renovate some areas and develop gardens. Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham.
Saadien Tombs – Originally these tombs were walled in by Moulay Ismail in the late seventeenth century and “rediscovered” by the French in 1917. The rumor is that the French rediscovered the tombs while conducting an aerial survey of Marrakech. The locals say otherwise. Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm. Admission: 10 dirham. Less than 12 is 3 dirham.
Dar Si Said – A specious house that has been remodeled and serves as a museum for different textiles, arms and jewelry. A simple, nice museum, though many of the displays in Dar Si Said are similar to the Marrakech Museum. Website: http://www.maroc.net/museums/marrakesh1.html Open daily from 9am – 4:45pm except Tuesdays.
Menara Gardens – The Menara Gardens are not a “must see” destination in Marrakech, though the 100-hectare giant olive grove might be nice for a family picnic. There is a nice terrace view from the former military building. Proceeds go to the Cultural Foundation for Restoration. A large pool dating from 11th century is interesting enough given that soldiers were trained to swim there. However, swimming today is not allowed nor encouraged. Camel rides are available for 20 – 100 dirham for a twenty-minute ride, depending on your bargaining skills. Open daily from 7am – 5pm. Entrance free. 10 dirham to tour the small building with a terrace.
Palmeraie – Long the home of the upscale, the Marrakech Palmeraie consists of a large grove of palm trees outside of the medina. Throughout this grove, there are many activities for the family. Website: http://www.palmeraiemarrakech.com A petit taxi can get you there for about 35 – 50 dirham. Camel rides of twenty minutes can be had for 50 dirham. For those looking for a round of golf while on vacation in Marrakech, this is the place!
Restaurants
As always, we recommend taking a few minutes to check out the Best Restaurants of Morocco for the most up-to-date information on restaurants. Restaurants, especially in Marrakech, are continually in rotation and the best restaurant today could be tomorrow’s has-been. Here are a few of our favorite restaurants to get you started.
Bakchich Café – Right off the Jemaa al-F’na on Rue des Banques behind Café France, this chicly styled café features the rare breakfast for those venturing out before 9am. Breakfast for 25 dhs, lunch 20-30 dhs. Regular Moroccan fare. Free wifi. Cool recycled decor.
Café des Epices – About 30 – 50 dhs for lunch. Open everyday from about 10am – midnight. Stop in for a tea, coffee or just a bottle of water. A very popular stop and a nice break from the Jemaa al-F’na in the medina. On the plaza, or “rahba,” outside the café, they used to have auctions, sell spices, snails and slaves.
Chez Mazzouz – Along this same plaza is a “snack” place with nothing particularly special, but it does have WIFI, which can be helpful for those needing to hop online. This is a nice substitute for Café des Epices if the café is too crowded.
Earth Café – Located just off the Djemma al-Fna on Darb Zeouak, there are some great vegetarian options for lunch, brunch and dinner. Cooking sessions start daily at 11am for a maximum of two people for 200 dhs. They have opened another location near the Musée Dar Si Said. Open from 10am – late. Visit Earth Cafe.
Henna Café – Located near the taxi waiting area at Dar El Basha near Bab Doukala, Henna Café is the place you want to be if you want to travel ethically. Henna Café opened in November 2011 and is a sweet little place run by the very lovely Mohammed who is very genuine and competent. Stop in for a cup of tea or coffee or have a simple lunch with dessert or just a sandwich for around 20 dirham. Henna Café is a non-profit cafe so all profits go to local causes. Currently the café offers free English lessons to Moroccan women so that they can find employment. Visit Henna Cafe. Open from 10am – midnight or so.
Kosybar – Located between the Bahia and El-Badi palaces in the Jewish Mellah plaza or “place des fer blantier.” Great if you want to stop for a beer, wine or cocktail. 100 – 400 dhs. Lunch and dinner. Visit Kozybar.
Ksar Es Saoussan – Fxed menu starts at 350. Wine/beer is included, but there is the usual limited menu of beer, wine, and spirits. Local specialties are very well done – enjoy couscous Marrakechi and pastilla with pigeon and almonds in a beautifully restored riad with a bit of colonialist vibe. Waiters are dressed as touaregs. Unless you are really hungry, the “petit diner” should suffice. +212 (0) 524 44 06 32. Reservations highly recommended. Visit Ksar Es Saoussan.
Le Foundouk – Traditional Moroccan Cuisine with great service right in the heart of the medina. Open daily from 12pm – midnight. Closed Mondays. About 50 dhs for lunch and 100 dhs for dinner. +212 (0) 524 37 81 90. Reservations highly recommended. Website: Visit Le Foundouk.
Le Marrakchi – Across from the market and adjacent to the newspaper stand. With two main courses and wine running at around 300 dhs, this is one of the most posh restaurants in the square. The food is not necessarily better than elsewhere, but it is one of the few restaurants that serve alcohol. It also has a completely enclosed upstairs terrace, which is ideal for views of the square when the weather is bad. Visit Le Marrakchi.
Maison MK – Hidden in the medina, this chic hotel offers a great cooking course and serves a gourmet dinner at 8 pm. Reservations a few days in advance a must. Phone: +212 (0) 524 37 61 73. Visit Maison MK.
Un déjeuner à Marrakech – a bit more upscale with a French bistro style/Salon de thé style. A coffee and a snack can will cost anywhere between 50 – 100 dhs. A short walk from the Djemma al-F’na on “Place Douar Graoua.” Free WIFI. No smoking. Open from 10am to 11pm.
Villa Flore – in the medina with some wonderful vegetarian options including a mille-feuille of eggplant and potatoes drizzled with vinaigrette, olive oil and rosemary. Seasonal menu. Nice ambiance, good service, though a bit posh. Appetizers start at 60 dhs, entrees at 100 dhs and desert around 50 dhs. Smoking is allowed. French style, portions. Save room for dessert! Website: Visit Villa Flore.
Eating at Djemaa El-Fna
To eat well in Marrakech, you can always do what many of the locals and Moroccan tourists do – eat at the food stalls right in the square! Many people are put off by some of the sellers and have the idea that these are “unsafe” to eat at. In fact, these food stalls are well regulated by the local authorities and have been here serving food in the famed Djemaa el-F’na for years! Prepare to bargain a bit for your food, but a bowl of harira soup should cost around 10 dhs and lunch or dinner can be as much as 100 dhs, depending on how much you want to eat! Drinks can be a bit expensive and some stalls will offer free mint tea.
Next to the food stalls are the fresh orange juice sellers. You can try it with a bit of salt like some of the locals, but watch out for sellers that water down the juice with tap water. Blood orange juice costs 10 – 12 dhs and a regular orange juice should cost around 4-6 dhs for a glass, though some people prefer to bring a small plastic water bottle and have it filled for around 10 dhs because many of the vendors don’t do a good job of cleaning the glasses. Some will sell you a plastic cup for 1 dh. Just make sure you agree on the price before you drink!
Nightlife
Pacha – The biggest nightclub in Africa. Around 250 dhs to get in. Drinks are more overpriced than usual and smoking is allowed. Some of the most famous DJs from around the world spin here. Open from 11pm. Visit Pacha.
Theatro – A bit smaller than Pacha, but the same type of nightclub concept. Open from 11pm. Visit Theatro.
Getting Away
Supratour – Buy your tickets a day or two before your departure date from the Supratour Station located behind the train station. Next to the ticket office is an office titled “Enregistrement Bagages.” If you are traveling with anything more than a small backpack, you will have to buy a separate ticket for each item of luggage. Each bag will set you back 5 dirham. They don’t usually tell you this when you buy your bus ticket, but you will be reminded when you try to store your larger bags beneath the bus.
Day Trips
Ourika and Oukaimeden are two popular day trips from Marrakech. In Ourika, you can stroll through rose gardens and enjoy a great view over the valley from the Atlas Mountains. Escape the heat of the city and, on the way, stop in Setti Fatma for a hike up to one of three waterfalls feeding into each other, falling down the mountain or stop at an overlook and have a mint tea and pack a picnic. There are a few cafes and restaurants along the valley drive, all serving the same subpar Moroccan fare, tajines etc, and overpriced. Best time to go is in spring when the cherries, almonds and roses are all in bloom.
Of note, there are several women’s cooperatives along the way that sell various products made from Argan – soap, lotions, cooking oils, etc. Cooperative Ourika is one of our favorites, located on the riverside of the road through Ourika in the village of Oulmes. Email here: Arganisme@gmail.com
For both Ourika and Oukaimeden, we mostly outline these locations since most travelers can work out getting here and even navigating on their own. To really explore the mountains and get away from touristy regions, it’s best to have an arranged trip that will allow you to walk, trek, visit villages, dine with a local family, and do other cultural activities. Another plug for what we do: Journey Beyond Travel can help you go beyond the destination on one of our many unique and customized trips.
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