Morocco holidays..Merzouga
While lazing away the hours in Rissani, I'd been investigating the route to Merzouga, the home to the only genuine Saharan ergs in Morocco (an erg being a classic, sand dune desert). There are two roads to Merzouga, but both are relatively scary. The route from Rissani is the shorter of the two, but sections of it are pretty rough, and in a rented Fiat Uno it's probably not in your interests to try it, unless being stranded in the middle of the desert is your cup of tea. The other route, from Erfoud, is easier to follow, but it's still along rough dirt roads (or pistes as they're known in Morocco) and the guidebooks are careful to sound a note of caution, while still saying that normal cars can reach Merzouga without serious problems.
Taking a break on the way to Merzouga to chat to a local on a bicycle
Not wishing to get stuck with a stranded car in the desert, Peta and I had popped into Rissani to check out the score, only to be welcomed by the usual gaggle of young men trying desperately to sell us their guiding skills and goodness knows what else. They felt about as trustworthy as the most dodgy Moroccans do – in other words, you'd trust them as far as you can spit, which in the desiccated desert is no distance at all – so we turned around and decided to risk driving to Erfoud and them down to Merzouga.
It proved to be no scarier than the corrugated dirt roads in outback Australia, and we made it to Merzouga without any lasting damage (though the bone-shaking roads made it sound as if the car, now nicknamed Sandy, was about to fall apart in spectacular style). Things were helped by a couple of tourists we'd brought along from the hotel, Mike and Marie, who would have been very handy if we'd got stuck in sand, and provided us with enough confidence to tackle the desert and win.
A donkey in Merzouga
The drive itself was beautiful, and after about 40 minutes of rattling and swerving round the potholes, the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi popped into view on the horizon, like a huge red mountain range in the distance. We bumped our way along the dusty dirt road straight towards the dunes, and as they got closer the red dissolved into a myriad mix of peach, ochre and brown, giving the dunes a magical look that made all the bouncing worthwhile.
Sure, we got stuck in the sand when we got to Merzouga itself, but who cares? It was the work of two minutes to push us back onto the road, and it wasn't long before we'd found a genuine oasis at the end of the caravan route: the Ksar Sania has atmospheric double rooms set in their own desert cottages (complete with roof), and suddenly life never seemed better. The peach dunes rose from the desert a stone's throw from our roof terrace, camels wandered around, mini-dust storms blew through town, and the peace was complete.
How I love the desert, especially when you can get a nice, cold bottle of water to keep the heat in check...
Exploring the Saharan Dunes
There isn't a lot of water in the Sahara, and the sign in the hotel made the point pretty succinctly:
The huge dunes of the Erg Chebbi
It's obvious just how dry it is in the desert from the speed at which your clothes dry after washing: lie your soaking towel on the roof and the scorching winds will dry it in under 15 minutes, not surprising then you consider the maximum temperature when we were in Merzouga was a whopping 48°C (and the minimum was 27°C, a respectable temperature for a midsummer's day in England).
Your lips dry up unless you constantly apply lip salve, your skin starts to flake, and the flies will land on absolutely anything that contains even a hint of water, including tear ducts, the corners of your mouth, and any portion of visible, sweating skin. It is hot beyond words.
The view from our hotel roof
But that's the point, and it would be a pretty stupid thing to complain about the heat when you've just crossed hours of stony desert to check out the Sahara in June. If you wanted to explore the desert in a more amenable climate, then although Merzouga hasn't had any rain since 1995, it's not devoid of water. Indeed, when it rains in the High Atlas, and when the snow melts, the rivers rage, creating havoc for local transport but feeding the oases with enough water to sustain life. Merzouga even boasts a lake for part of the year, and it glimmers on the horizon, attracting flamingos into the otherwise utterly inhospitable environment of the desert. As you drive along the roads of the hammada the most common road sign is the one warning of a ford in the road, sporting a car plunging through water, spraying out from under its wheels. It's an odd thought as you rattle over river-beds that look like they've never seen water, let along flooding.
48°C in the shade
But without this amazing lack of rainfall you wouldn't have the dunes, and it's the dunes that make the Sahara. Stony desert is one thing, but after a while the beauty of the hammada begins to pale, which is why it's such an epiphany driving to Merzouga and seeing the huge dunes of the Erg Chebbi rising up on the horizon. Located right next to the town of Merzouga, the dunes rise up 150m in huge piles of peach undulation, and if, like me, you're unable to pass a mountain without wanting to climb it, you're in for a treat.
Climbing sand dunes is an art, and it's one I don't particularly understand. Dunes are no more than huge piles of sand – indeed, in the Erg Chebbi you can see the underlying ground, and it genuinely looks like someone has simply dumped a load of peach-coloured sand straight onto the ground – but climbing huge piles of sand is no joke, especially in the baking Saharan sand. If you try to traverse the dunes, you'll slip downhill; if you try to climb straight up, then it's two steps up, one step down; if you climb in boots then they'll fill with heavy sand within two minutes, but if you climb in sandals your feet will fry; your water will be as hot as tea within half an hour of setting off; and when the wind blows, as it does an awful lot in the desert, your molars fill up with sand and your eyes feel like sand pits.
Whirlwinds in the Merzouga desert
Get up that dune, though, and who cares about the hurt? The landscape is like no other, because Erg Chebbi is nothing other than a peach sand mountain range. OK, so the mountains aren't huge, but the range of textures and colours is so other-worldy that it's trivial to trick yourself into thinking that you're staring at a massive Martian landscape of rifts, valleys and dizzying heights. The dunes don't go on as far as the eye can see – they're bound on all sides by hammada – but they do extend for a number of kilometres in each direction, and it's easy to kid yourself that you're surrounded by sand right to the horizon and beyond.
Surrounding Area
Hotel set in the sand dunes of Merzouga. Information on rooms, location, rates and dromedary excursions throughout the southern region of the country
Accommodations
The ksar Bicha is located just outside the village of Merzouga and only a few steps from the Erg Chebbi. The double and triple rooms, all with private bath, are clean and comfortable. And for families in search of a night under the stars, ksar Bicha invites its guests to sleep on the terrace or in a tent, or experience the desert in a bivouac. Accommodation is half board. The cost of the pack trips varies with the size of the group and length of stay
Rooms/Suites
You have a choice of 10 bedrooms, each elaborately decorated and offering the best in interior design in traditional Morrocan style. Each room has a private bathroom and individual design.
a big choice also of more than 30 berbere tents, double, single and family tents.
Amenities
The restaurant offers delicious cuisine with fresh local produce from the markets used in the preparation of the food. We offer traditional Morrocan dishes.
You will enjoy a haven of peace where style and comfort are combined to create a special atmosphere.
Services Offered
The Riad ksar bicha provides professional services in Airport transfers between (marrakech ,errachidia, ouarzazate, fes )and Merzouga desert. journeys to other cities in the great south of morocco.
Other Information
At the gateway to the Sahara, on the edge of the Erg Chebbi, the highest sand dunes in Morocco, the hotel Ksar Bicha offers a pleasant base from which to discover the desert
hotel ksar bicha invites you to bivouac in the superb golden sand-dunes of the moroccan desert.
There you can attend colourful sunrises and sets, go for wonderful dromedary-rides, drink tea with nomades and enjoy absolute serenity, relax and meditation oppurtunities.
It would also be marvellous if you visit the oasis, lake sirji and the berber villages in the surroundings.
Directions
2 km before merzouga village on the way comming from rissani , there is a sign indicate the 1 km of a good track to the hotel.
Berber tents in the Sahara
Desert Nomad Bivouac in Sahara Desert
Auberge du Sud’s special crew will give you thrill and adventure through out Sahara Desert and organize trips to other amazing places in Morocco. We organize programs like nights in Berber tents below the stars in the Sahara. Auberge du Sud offers different types of tents (bivouac) and nomad camps inside Erg Chebbi Dunes. From luxury tents to standard camps with nomad tents, Auberge du Sud relies on quality and exceptional service in Sahara Desert.
Auberge du Sud has different types of facilities for you and one of the most asked are the Berber tents. Either in the middle of the Sahara or near our main building, you can experience the real life of a nomad inside a real desert tent. This experience is perfect for star lovers and makes the perfect romantic spot for lovers.
Private groups and organizations
Auberge du Sud can arrange everything you wish to organize your friends vacations. Special events can be arranged in order to make you and your group of friends have an amazing time in their Desert experience. Bikers, Campers, Classic cars, Young people, etc. Just let us know in advance.
Merzouga is for most travellers the final stop on the journey south from Rissani, or Erfoud. It is a hulking village, a place of extremes. It can be years without rain here, but a few years back, heaven opened up and flooded the place, destroying most houses.
The main attraction here, must be the Saharan lake of Dayet Sriji, quite a surprise to come by. Morocco is a country of very few natural lakes, so finding a real one here, about an hour of travel south of everything, feels unreal. It is a real salty one, making agriculture impossible, yet it is a true lake.
In the lake there are numerous birds, of which flamgoes will be the most fascinating for most to watch. I had a small accident with my camera, which destroyed the good pictures I made of the birds. The one of to the left is the closest I have to any flamingo.From a not-too-far distance, the village of Merzouga merges with the surrounding landscape. That applies even to the inhabitants, of which most are dressed in traditional jellabas of earten colours.
In between all the trees of the oasis, run canals. Considering how far you are from the next trace of civilization, how barren the nature is, and how hot it is all through the year, it is surprising to see how strongly the water streams through the canals.
Merzouga.Auberge,Camping and bivouac SAHARA
Village Hassi labiad 3km before Merzouga, Morocco Hotels & Resorts
Nice hotel in a oasis at the adge of Merzouga's sand dunes recommanded by all famous guide-books and run by flexible multi- language staff organising different services : Cameltrips & trekking Bivouacs Rent 4x4 &VTT Camping & swimming pool
Bask in glorious sunsets and channel your inner sheik while you ride a meandering camel across the windblown dunes of Erg Chebbi. Merzouga, a small village in southeast Morocco, gives visitors a taste of desert life, and treks to nearby villages will reward you with African revelry, including music and dance.
While lazing away the hours in Rissani, I'd been investigating the route to Merzouga, the home to the only genuine Saharan ergs in Morocco (an erg being a classic, sand dune desert). There are two roads to Merzouga, but both are relatively scary. The route from Rissani is the shorter of the two, but sections of it are pretty rough, and in a rented Fiat Uno it's probably not in your interests to try it, unless being stranded in the middle of the desert is your cup of tea. The other route, from Erfoud, is easier to follow, but it's still along rough dirt roads (or pistes as they're known in Morocco) and the guidebooks are careful to sound a note of caution, while still saying that normal cars can reach Merzouga without serious problems.
Taking a break on the way to Merzouga to chat to a local on a bicycle
Not wishing to get stuck with a stranded car in the desert, Peta and I had popped into Rissani to check out the score, only to be welcomed by the usual gaggle of young men trying desperately to sell us their guiding skills and goodness knows what else. They felt about as trustworthy as the most dodgy Moroccans do – in other words, you'd trust them as far as you can spit, which in the desiccated desert is no distance at all – so we turned around and decided to risk driving to Erfoud and them down to Merzouga.
It proved to be no scarier than the corrugated dirt roads in outback Australia, and we made it to Merzouga without any lasting damage (though the bone-shaking roads made it sound as if the car, now nicknamed Sandy, was about to fall apart in spectacular style). Things were helped by a couple of tourists we'd brought along from the hotel, Mike and Marie, who would have been very handy if we'd got stuck in sand, and provided us with enough confidence to tackle the desert and win.
A donkey in Merzouga
The drive itself was beautiful, and after about 40 minutes of rattling and swerving round the potholes, the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi popped into view on the horizon, like a huge red mountain range in the distance. We bumped our way along the dusty dirt road straight towards the dunes, and as they got closer the red dissolved into a myriad mix of peach, ochre and brown, giving the dunes a magical look that made all the bouncing worthwhile.
Sure, we got stuck in the sand when we got to Merzouga itself, but who cares? It was the work of two minutes to push us back onto the road, and it wasn't long before we'd found a genuine oasis at the end of the caravan route: the Ksar Sania has atmospheric double rooms set in their own desert cottages (complete with roof), and suddenly life never seemed better. The peach dunes rose from the desert a stone's throw from our roof terrace, camels wandered around, mini-dust storms blew through town, and the peace was complete.
How I love the desert, especially when you can get a nice, cold bottle of water to keep the heat in check...
Exploring the Saharan Dunes
There isn't a lot of water in the Sahara, and the sign in the hotel made the point pretty succinctly:
The huge dunes of the Erg Chebbi
It's obvious just how dry it is in the desert from the speed at which your clothes dry after washing: lie your soaking towel on the roof and the scorching winds will dry it in under 15 minutes, not surprising then you consider the maximum temperature when we were in Merzouga was a whopping 48°C (and the minimum was 27°C, a respectable temperature for a midsummer's day in England).
Your lips dry up unless you constantly apply lip salve, your skin starts to flake, and the flies will land on absolutely anything that contains even a hint of water, including tear ducts, the corners of your mouth, and any portion of visible, sweating skin. It is hot beyond words.
The view from our hotel roof
But that's the point, and it would be a pretty stupid thing to complain about the heat when you've just crossed hours of stony desert to check out the Sahara in June. If you wanted to explore the desert in a more amenable climate, then although Merzouga hasn't had any rain since 1995, it's not devoid of water. Indeed, when it rains in the High Atlas, and when the snow melts, the rivers rage, creating havoc for local transport but feeding the oases with enough water to sustain life. Merzouga even boasts a lake for part of the year, and it glimmers on the horizon, attracting flamingos into the otherwise utterly inhospitable environment of the desert. As you drive along the roads of the hammada the most common road sign is the one warning of a ford in the road, sporting a car plunging through water, spraying out from under its wheels. It's an odd thought as you rattle over river-beds that look like they've never seen water, let along flooding.
48°C in the shade
But without this amazing lack of rainfall you wouldn't have the dunes, and it's the dunes that make the Sahara. Stony desert is one thing, but after a while the beauty of the hammada begins to pale, which is why it's such an epiphany driving to Merzouga and seeing the huge dunes of the Erg Chebbi rising up on the horizon. Located right next to the town of Merzouga, the dunes rise up 150m in huge piles of peach undulation, and if, like me, you're unable to pass a mountain without wanting to climb it, you're in for a treat.
Climbing sand dunes is an art, and it's one I don't particularly understand. Dunes are no more than huge piles of sand – indeed, in the Erg Chebbi you can see the underlying ground, and it genuinely looks like someone has simply dumped a load of peach-coloured sand straight onto the ground – but climbing huge piles of sand is no joke, especially in the baking Saharan sand. If you try to traverse the dunes, you'll slip downhill; if you try to climb straight up, then it's two steps up, one step down; if you climb in boots then they'll fill with heavy sand within two minutes, but if you climb in sandals your feet will fry; your water will be as hot as tea within half an hour of setting off; and when the wind blows, as it does an awful lot in the desert, your molars fill up with sand and your eyes feel like sand pits.
Whirlwinds in the Merzouga desert
Get up that dune, though, and who cares about the hurt? The landscape is like no other, because Erg Chebbi is nothing other than a peach sand mountain range. OK, so the mountains aren't huge, but the range of textures and colours is so other-worldy that it's trivial to trick yourself into thinking that you're staring at a massive Martian landscape of rifts, valleys and dizzying heights. The dunes don't go on as far as the eye can see – they're bound on all sides by hammada – but they do extend for a number of kilometres in each direction, and it's easy to kid yourself that you're surrounded by sand right to the horizon and beyond.
Surrounding Area
Hotel set in the sand dunes of Merzouga. Information on rooms, location, rates and dromedary excursions throughout the southern region of the country
Accommodations
The ksar Bicha is located just outside the village of Merzouga and only a few steps from the Erg Chebbi. The double and triple rooms, all with private bath, are clean and comfortable. And for families in search of a night under the stars, ksar Bicha invites its guests to sleep on the terrace or in a tent, or experience the desert in a bivouac. Accommodation is half board. The cost of the pack trips varies with the size of the group and length of stayRooms/Suites
You have a choice of 10 bedrooms, each elaborately decorated and offering the best in interior design in traditional Morrocan style. Each room has a private bathroom and individual design.
a big choice also of more than 30 berbere tents, double, single and family tents.
Amenities
The restaurant offers delicious cuisine with fresh local produce from the markets used in the preparation of the food. We offer traditional Morrocan dishes.
You will enjoy a haven of peace where style and comfort are combined to create a special atmosphere.
Services Offered
The Riad ksar bicha provides professional services in Airport transfers between (marrakech ,errachidia, ouarzazate, fes )and Merzouga desert. journeys to other cities in the great south of morocco.
Other Information
At the gateway to the Sahara, on the edge of the Erg Chebbi, the highest sand dunes in Morocco, the hotel Ksar Bicha offers a pleasant base from which to discover the desert
hotel ksar bicha invites you to bivouac in the superb golden sand-dunes of the moroccan desert.
There you can attend colourful sunrises and sets, go for wonderful dromedary-rides, drink tea with nomades and enjoy absolute serenity, relax and meditation oppurtunities.
It would also be marvellous if you visit the oasis, lake sirji and the berber villages in the surroundings.
Directions
2 km before merzouga village on the way comming from rissani , there is a sign indicate the 1 km of a good track to the hotel.
Berber tents in the Sahara
Desert Nomad Bivouac in Sahara Desert
Auberge du Sud’s special crew will give you thrill and adventure through out Sahara Desert and organize trips to other amazing places in Morocco. We organize programs like nights in Berber tents below the stars in the Sahara. Auberge du Sud offers different types of tents (bivouac) and nomad camps inside Erg Chebbi Dunes. From luxury tents to standard camps with nomad tents, Auberge du Sud relies on quality and exceptional service in Sahara Desert.
Auberge du Sud has different types of facilities for you and one of the most asked are the Berber tents. Either in the middle of the Sahara or near our main building, you can experience the real life of a nomad inside a real desert tent. This experience is perfect for star lovers and makes the perfect romantic spot for lovers.
Private groups and organizations
Auberge du Sud can arrange everything you wish to organize your friends vacations. Special events can be arranged in order to make you and your group of friends have an amazing time in their Desert experience. Bikers, Campers, Classic cars, Young people, etc. Just let us know in advance.
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The main attraction here, must be the Saharan lake of Dayet Sriji, quite a surprise to come by. Morocco is a country of very few natural lakes, so finding a real one here, about an hour of travel south of everything, feels unreal. It is a real salty one, making agriculture impossible, yet it is a true lake.In the lake there are numerous birds, of which flamgoes will be the most fascinating for most to watch. I had a small accident with my camera, which destroyed the good pictures I made of the birds. The one of to the left is the closest I have to any flamingo.From a not-too-far distance, the village of Merzouga merges with the surrounding landscape. That applies even to the inhabitants, of which most are dressed in traditional jellabas of earten colours.In between all the trees of the oasis, run canals. Considering how far you are from the next trace of civilization, how barren the nature is, and how hot it is all through the year, it is surprising to see how strongly the water streams through the canals. Merzouga.Auberge,Camping and bivouac SAHARA
Village Hassi labiad 3km before Merzouga, Morocco Hotels & Resorts
Nice hotel in a oasis at the adge of Merzouga's sand dunes recommanded by all famous guide-books and run by flexible multi- language staff organising different services : Cameltrips & trekking Bivouacs Rent 4x4 &VTT Camping & swimming pool
Bask in glorious sunsets and channel your inner sheik while you ride a meandering camel across the windblown dunes of Erg Chebbi. Merzouga, a small village in southeast Morocco, gives visitors a taste of desert life, and treks to nearby villages will reward you with African revelry, including music and dance.
