Casablanca and Marrakech!
Call to prayer: Koutoubia Mosque at Sunset, Marrakech
Hard to imagine a more exciting day than I’ve just had: sunrise over the lights of Casablanca reflecting in the ocean as we finished our week-long crossing of the Atlantic, and sunset over the Koutoubia Mosque and the Medina in Marrakech!
Great to be back on solid earth after a week at sea (although our bodies still think we are at sea as the land “rolls” beneath us). By 6:00 am this morning we could see the Casablanca approaching, dominated by the enormous Hassan II mosque and minaret built out over the ocean just south of the harbor.
Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca
Casablanca Harbor at Sunrise
The night before Pat and I watched Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in the classic “Casablanca"; very little resemblance today to that World War II port city, as Casablanca now has over 6 million people. It is an energetic, busy modern city.
I am the “Trip Liaison” leader for a group of 37 – 32 students, 2 faculty, 2 staff, and one life-long learner for a 4-day trip south of Casablanca to Marrakech and 2 days of “trekking” between Berber villages on the edge of the Atlas Mountains. We left the ship at 10:00 am and traveled by bus to the Casablanca train station where we headed south to Marrakech on a 4-hour ride.
Casablanca Train Station
Passengers, Casablanca Train Station
Atlas Mountains rising from the Haouz plain
The arid countryside with the Atlas Mountains in the distance reminds me so much of my Southern California home, especially the Mojave Desert area around Lancaster bordering the San Gabriel Mountains.
Central Marketplace & Plaza, Marrakech We arrived in Marrakech by mid-afternoon, and after checking into our hotel in “New Town,” Pat and I walked through the Medina walls, past the Koutoubia Mosque, and into the famous maze of “souks” – covered market stalls – where it is easy to get lost in the winding alley-ways, and where one can find everything from dates, spices, and olives to Berber and Arab rugs and brilliantly-dyed fabrics and ceramics.
Spices!
We had been in the market for only a short while before we were enticed into a spectacular old “riad” – traditional house built around a courtyard – that now serves as home to a women’s weaving cooperative and hundreds of spectacular carpets covering all the walls.
Our host, Mohamed, was the epitome of Moroccan hospitality, and took us all throughout the house, explaining its history. Originally the home of a 16th century famous university scholar, its main entry room spans three stories and is now covered in multicolored rugs.
Ceiling of Riad, Marrakech Soon we were being served Moroccan mint tea, and the show began: Mohamed’s assistants began to bring out rug after rug (some as large as our modest Missoula home…) as he explained each weaving style, had us remove our shoes to feel the pile and weave, all the while refusing to mention anything about prices (“There will be time for that later!”).
Pat checks out Berber Rugs, Marrakech The longer we stayed and the more rugs we saw, the clearer it became that we were not going to be leaving without purchasing a rug (and if Mohamed had his way, several for each of us!). We finally convinced him that the rugs he was showing us were far too large for our rooms, and we got down to small runner rugs – still beyond our price range, but getting closer. We ended up with a beautiful red rug and a great story of our first encounter with the famous Marrakech merchants, and then we plunged further into the market.
Our host, Mohamed, with three of the Rugs we DIDN'T buy... After a few hours of viewing the snake charmers, sampling fresh squeezed orange juice, and haggling over some beautiful old fossils I coveted, we made our way back to the hotel where we met the group and returned to the Medina for an amazing traditional Moroccan dinner at the Al Baraka restaurant – platter after platter of vegetables, couscous, olives, bread, and lamb & beef.
The Walled City: The Medina section of Marrakech at dusk
Dinner, Al Baraka restaurant
Crescent Moon sets over the Koutoubia Mosque, Marrakech
As we left the central plaza (Djemma el Fna), it was swollen with families, couples, and friends celebrating the first Saturday evening after Ramadan, and a crescent moon hung low over the Koutoubia Mosque as firecrackers burst around us. We finally made it back to the hotel and rest by 11 pm – a very full first day in Morocco under our belts.
After Ramadan: Saturday night in Old Marrakech
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Casablanca or Marrakech!
MARKET LEADER in marrakech
MARKET LEADER in marrakech
Hard to imagine a more exciting day than I’ve just had: sunrise over the lights of Casablanca reflecting in the ocean as we finished our week-long crossing of the Atlantic, and sunset over the Koutoubia Mosque and the Medina in Marrakech!
We arrived in Marrakech by mid-afternoon, and after checking into our hotel in “New Town,” Pat and I walked through the Medina walls, past the Koutoubia Mosque, and into the famous maze of “souks” – covered market stalls – where it is easy to get lost in the winding alley-ways, and where one can find everything from dates, spices, and olives to Berber and Arab rugs and brilliantly-dyed fabrics and ceramics.
Great to be back on solid earth after a week at sea (although our bodies still think we are at sea as the land “rolls” beneath us). By 6:00 am this morning we could see the Casablanca approaching, dominated by the enormous Hassan II mosque and minaret built out over the ocean just south of the harbor
North Africa’s most famous market, Djemaa el Fna square, explodes to life after dark. Lorded over by the illuminated minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, oceans of revelers come out to dine at sizzling food stalls and soak up the carnivalesque atmosphere conjured by monkey handlers, cobra charmers, drummers, acrobats, musicians, soapbox preachers and folk-medicine hawkers. If you can handle more dessert, visit the spice-cake dealers (40 dirhams a slice) and wash it down with a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice (a mere 3 dirhams) from one of the myriad fruit carts.
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PALACE FOR YOUR PALATE in marrakech
PALACE FOR YOUR PALATE in marrakech
There are very few restaurants in Seattle that I would classify as "special event" restaurants, because either their staff is too stuck up and yuppie or their atmosphere is too stuffy for my taste - however this is one of the few I can say meets my standards for a place to take someone for a special evening.
Our special evening? My in-laws birthdays. I was aware of the popularity of Marrakesh, so we had reservations ahead of time, thankfully. There is a 3 foot by 4 foot waiting area - which means most people wait outside. That would be my only complaint, because in the dead of winter - its not a fun wait.
The restaurant is decorated fabulously - with rugs, scarves, fabric, covering every wall, floor and ceiling - and then small tables, pillows and stools for eating. The lights are low and the ambiance finished off perfectly with Moroccan music and dancing.
We decided to get the Royale Feast Dinner - which is for 4 people or more. It is a 5 course meal that includes one of each special on the menu.
Our waitress first came with a bowl to wash all of our hands. It was warm water and such a nice thing to do before we all eat.
The first course the traditional lentil soup. SO savory, just the right temperature to sip from the bowls. Then the waitress brought a huge woven basket of sliced bread and told us to take some. Great homemade bread, complimented the soup perfectly. Before we had a chance to finish our soup, the second course - Moroccan salad came. It consisted of a hummus-like paste as well as a vegi medly that was almost like a greek salad, but better (no olives). We ended up eating them all together, and felt as though that could have been our dinner.
The third course was easily the most INTERESTING dish I have ever eaten. I have lived in Africa, Greece, and have eaten tons of different foods, but this by far can be labeled the most yummy and interesting. It was called B'stilla Royale and basically its a light crispy filo dough, filled with a ground meat and onion mixture and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Something about the mixture makes it delectable.
At this point we found ourselves comfortable but salivating at the mere thought of the next course and what they had next to surprise us with.
The 4th course was the MAIN course. And because we chose the Royale Feast. That is what we got. Each dish was savory in its own way. We got 3 chicken, one Couscous dish, and a lamb and a beef dish. We passed the dishes around the table, each taking bites from each dish. Its exactly what you WISH you could do at restaurants, try a bit of everything.
During the dinner course, the music got louder and the belly/sword dancer came out. She was a beautiful dancer who played with the patrons and invited a few people to dance with her. I often find side shows like this embarrassing and awkward, however she was so at ease and friendly, it was really entertaining.
With dinner done, low lights, comfortable pillows, we really could have taken a nap at this point, but the waitress came again - to wash our hands. After washing them - she sprinkled all of our hands with Rose Water - to prepare us for dessert.
Our 5th course was served in tiny bowls. It was a small chopped apple, pear and banana salad that was mixed with their juices and a bit of brown sugar. It was VERY refreshing and wonderful after such a big filling meal. Our waitress then came with 5 glasses and asked us to sit back a bit, in case of splash over. Confused we sat back - and she then started to poor the hot, fragrant, sweetened mint tea - from ABOVE our heads! She kept moving up until she was pouring from as high as her arms could reach standing (and we were on the floor). The tea was more than tasty and a PERFECT way to end an amazing dinner.
Unlike the "group meal" like we recently got at the Italian Maggianno's that I reviewed saying we paid WAY too much for what we got - this on the other hand was $20 per person (FLAT, no additions) and we got MORE than expected and were pleasantly surprised.
Rating: ***** Excellent food, service and ambiance. It is a great place to take out of town guests, to celebrate an anniversary or for a special occasion.
Whether you’re proposing to your partner, celebrating an anniversary or pleading forgiveness for an affair — or if you’re just plain starved — everything is romantically presented and expertly cooked in the sumptuously Moorish interiors of Le Tobsil (22 Derb Moulay Abdallah Ben Hezzian; 212-24-44-40-52). The menu, which changes daily, typically includes cold Moroccan tapaslike salads, savory-sweet tagines and couscous with stewed meats and vegetables. A fruit-heavy dessert and glass of sweet mint tea provide the coda. Dinner for two is fixed at 1,200 dirhams, and includes wine. Reservations essential.
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