All the Majesty of the South



All the Majesty of the South


Not to be missed this summer is a mega exhibition on cultural relics of the Qin dynasty. On view from 25 July through 26 November, The Majesty of All Under Heaven: The Eternal Realm of China’s First Emperor, will offer 120 exceptional artifacts, including terracotta warriors and horses, rarely seen bronze objects, and lifelike acrobat figures. The little kiddos will be amazed with the magnificent showcase of the Emperor’s grand Terracotta Army!

Time: Mon & Wed- Sat 10am- 6pm Sun 10am- 7pm




1st day: Marrakesh – Ouarzazate Morning departure from your hotel/riad in Marrakesh at 8 o'clock and driving across the High Atlas mountains. At panoramic viewpoints, there will opportunities to stop and take photos. The first scheduled stop is at the Kasbah of Telouet, which served as a palatial residence and the headquarters of the powerful Glaoui tribe. Then the route crosses the Oumila Valley and leads to the Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou, the oldest and most famous Kasbah in Morocco and a UNESCO World Heritage site where we have lunch. After visiting the Kasbah, you continue to see another famous one of the area, Kasbah Tifoultoute. In Ouarzazate you spend the night in one of Desert Majesty’s apartments or a riad.


2nd day: Ouarzazate – Toudgha Morning departure to the Toudgha Gorge, passing the Oasis of Skoura, where numerous ancient kasbahs, some sadly in ruins, stand amongst the palm trees. From here, our route takes us through Kela’a M’gouna, the Valley of Roses, where we stop to see cosmetic articles locally-made from the valley’s abundant roses. These products are well-known throughout Morocco and are highly valued We drive off-road to the Dades Gorge for lunch, after which there is time for a stroll alongside the river before continuing to the Toudgha Gorge for the second night in a hotel or kasbah there.


3rd day: Toudgha – Merzouga After breakfast, there is time to walk by the river before continuing to Toudgha to the very different gorges there. Lunch will either be here in the gorges or later at the bivouac at the Erg Chebbi dunes. You drive there via the Oasis of Tafilalet, Erfoud and Rissani. In the afternoon you can take a two-hour camel ride in the Sahara. The sunset from the top of the dunes is spectacular (250m) and afterwards there is dinner and the night in a nomad tent at the foot of the dunes.


4th day: Merzouga – Agdez If you wake up early enough, you can watch the spectacle of the sunrise, when the colour of the dunes and the play of shadows are an awesome sight. The drive back east to the Dra’a Valley takes us via the villages of Tazzarine (featured in the film ‘Babel’) and N’Qob, where we have lunch. In the afternoon we drive to Tanasikht, along the track of the ancient caravan route, reaching the Dra’a valley, abundant with large palm trees and ancient kasbahs, at Agdez. We spend the night at the oldest Kasbah in the village, Kasbah Tamnougalte.


5th day: Agdez – Cheggaga Departure in the morning by 4x4 from Agdez through the Dra’a Valley along the track of the ancient caravan route to Zagora. From here the trip continues along paved roads to the village of M’hamid, which marks the end of the paved road and the beginning of the Sahara. Here we pause for lunch in a riad set in a beautiful garden full of palm trees and with a swimming pool. In the afternoon, we leave for the Erg Cheggaga dunes (300m) with 60km off-road. This route passes different features of the desert; ‘erg’, ‘reg’, ‘hammada’, oases. These dunes are far away from civilization, in the desert proper ……. and the silence and the expanse of the sand are overwhelming. Dinner and the night are in a bivouac there.


6th day: Cheggaga – Taroudannt After breakfast we drive another 90 km across the Sahara over the stony desert, “reg” and “hammada” and across the now dried-up Lake Iriqui. In the middle of this lake we can search for fossils. At the edge of the desert at Foum Zguid, we drive north to Taznakht, famous for its Berber gelims and carpets, where we stop for lunch. After crossing the Tizi-n-Ikhsane and Tizi-n-Tighatine passes, we reach Tilouine, the heart of the saffron growing region. The road takes us onto to Taroudannte where we stop for the night in a riad.


7th day: Taroudannt - Tassaouirgane In the morning a visit to the town known as “the little Marrakesh”. It is spectacular for its massive ramparts and beautiful medina. Then we climb back up the High Atlas Mountains across the famous Tizi-n-Test pass, stopping at the Tinmal mosque, which may be visited by non-Moslems. Lunch will be in a mountain restaurant with superb views. From here we continue through the mountains to the village of Tassaouirgane where we leave the main road and follow a valley up to a mountain retreat for the night. Here the quiet and beauty of the view down the valley over the gardens full of fruit trees is overwhelming.


8th day: Tassaourigane – Marrakesh After breakfast, we descend the valley again back to the main road. We turn towards Marrakesh following the Ourika River and all its waterfalls. In Imlil we stop to walk and look up at Toubkal Mountain, the highest peak in North Africa. Further down the Ourika Valley we stop for lunch with a Berber family. And then back to Marrakesh.








Guesthouse Dar Zohra



Guesthouse Dar Zohra
Twirling the souks of Marrakech, buying handiras, searching for vintage Beni Ouarain carpets and building guesthouse Dar Zohra in the High Atlas Mountains

We have decided to name our guesthouse Dar Zohra which translates into English as House of Zohra.

Our goal is to build a boutique accommodation where people can unwind in luscious comfort whilst at the same time experience a feel of authentic life in the Atlas Mountains. An excellent starting place for mountain walks or discovering the local villages, some of them more than 300 years old.

The guesthouse will have six spacious rooms and two suites. Each room has its own private terrace with a spectacular view of the mountains, the river and the nearby Berber villages.


In the restaurant and on the terraces beverages and meals will be served to our hotel guests or passing visitors. A peaceful environment to lounge with a traditional mint thee serving while observing the breathtaking view that spreads out before you.

On the agenda are a modest swimming pool and a private hammam to be build in the traditional style of a Moroccan bathhouse. We would like to offer our guests the opportunity of pleasant relaxation in an oriental ambiance, feeling revitalised for new adventures to come.



What do I know about Morocco?




What do I know about Morocco?



Not much really. The world's a big place and I just haven't managed to get around to expanding my travel knowledge to Morocco.
So, I asked Emiel van den Boomen from the travel blog Act of Traveling for a bit of education on this mysterious land.  Here Emiel has given us some great stories and tips he picked up on his family's journey to Morocco.  There is just something so otherworldly about Morocco, just look at Emiel's photos. Definitely a destination our family will be adding to our world travels.
Thanks to Emiel for all the help and Enjoy Morocco!
I have heard that Morocco, in particular Marrakech, can be a overwhelming and aggressive for travelers.
Was this your experience?  Did you find a big difference between Marrakech and other Moroccan cities?
Absolutely NOT! Overwhelming yes, but in the positive sense of the word.  Aggressive?  No Way.
We decided to not start our trip in one of the major cities in Morocco. So we kicked off in Ourazazate, close to the Atlas mountains and the desert. The beauty of the landscape was overwhelming: red rocks, long straight roads crossing the desert, beautiful!
Of course Marrakech is a big city, so you automatically encounter lots of traffic and people wanting to earn a buck from you. That's normal but I have to be honest that we expected a lot more hassle. People wanting to sell their stuff, trying to get you in their store. We were warned about the souks: “Don't talk to anyone because you cannot get rid of them once you have shown the slightest interest in their products”, they told us. The reality was totally different. Even in the soukhs we could easily walk around with our kids, no problem at all! We looked at shops, bought something if we wanted to and the kids had a great time. You can even take a horse and carriage to get you back to your hotel, it's a nice way to view the city.
We actually like bigger cities, because of the buzz and the many people to watch. Really, Marrakech to us was never aggressive. I know Marrakech seems an inappropriate destination right now, after the bombing that killed so many innocent people. Our experience dates from before that.


I know very little about travel in Morocco.  How did you get around while during your travels?
If you want a bit of luxury travel, you just rent a 4 wheel drive. Bags and suitcases go on top. You will see many of these cars crossing the country as it's a popular way for travelers to get around.
In Marrakech it's very easy to get a taxi. So-called petit taxis are allowed to carry only 3 people (plus the driver). Negotiate on beforehand about the price and just take another one if you believe they ask too much.
From Marrakech to Essaoiura (on the coast) we took a local bus. You can choose between local busses or somewhat more luxury busses. The last one is excellent when you travel with kids. It will take you to the coast in less than 3 hours and still for a very low price!


What did your children think of their time in Morocco?
What were some of the highlights and lowlights for your kids?
One lowlight turned into a highlight quickly for our youngest son (4 years at that time). We went for a camel ride on the beach of Essaouira, but my son was so scared of the camels at first! Look at the picture! But after a couple of minutes he started to smile again, enjoying being a Prince of Persia!
The children remember the desert, the camel ride, the cultural differences (“Dad, why are these women wearing clothes when they swim in the sea?”). The travel to Morocco was terrible, as we had a six-hour (!) delay before we could continue with our flight from Casablanca to Ouarzazate. And I can tell you, there is nothing to do at Casablanca airport! Lowlight for sure...


The culture is very different in Morocco when compared to the Netherlands.
What culture differences stood out or surprised you, both good and bad?
Of course the culture is very, very different. When we waited at the airport, a man got on this knees and started to pray. Time after time he bowed his head, almost touching the ground. My son asked us: Dad, is there a hole in the ground? Hilarious! Of course we explained about the Muslim culture and so we did a couple of more times during our trip.

I might read a lot of guidebooks before embarking on a trip to Morocco.
Tell me a few popular places I should feel free to skip and some Moroccan destinations or experiences I must partake in before I leave the country.
Popular places are Ait Benhaddou, a must-see place also for your kids. Our kids loved the climb up hill with a spectacular view of the country.
Also popular is Essaouira, a nice pitoresque city, but certainly NOT a place to stay if you want to lay on the beach and enjoy the sun. It's windy and therefore a popular place for surfers!
The highlights for me was the part from Ouarzazate into the mountains (Dades valley) and the desert.
In Marrakech, go to the Marjorelle gardens. An oasis of peace where you can take a rest after walking the busy streets. Be prepared, it can become very busy. At night, you MUST go to the Djem El Fnaa square in the middle of Marrakech. Every night the square turns into an open-air restaurant. Don't worry, the food is safe. We experienced it ourselves.


A lot of families I know are going to be cautious of traveling to Morocco with kids in tow.
What can you tell them about your own experiences that might ease their concerns?
We chose Morocco because for us it was a totally different world yet very close by (3.5 hours flight from Holland). We decided not to travel the whole country, but only a limited part. Morocco is great because you can easily combine large cities with smaller towns and elongated landscapes.
When you decide to travel to Morocco, make sure to get your vaccinations. But after that, and I am very honest here, we did not encounter anything that got us worried. You will immerse in a totally different world.


What are your 3 best tips for families traveling to Morocco?
1) Don't start in one of the big cities like Casablanca or Marrakech. Start smaller and work your way to the big city. It helps your kids to get used to a different culture.
2) Focus on a smaller part of the country and do not try to travel all the major cities, plus the desert, the mountains and the beach  Stay in places at least 2 or 3 days.
3) Book hotels with a swimming pool! There is nothing more needed after a dusty day in the desert to play in the water!

Things to see and do in Morocco
3
Atlantic Coast
Whether it’s a stay in Asilah, the little whitewashed town near the beaches popular with Moroccans, Agadir for the huge stretch of sand replete with western comforts, or the beautiful and wild deserted shores reaching through the Oued Massa, Souss Masa and El Houceima National Parks, Morocco’s Atlantic coast is a beach-lovers dream.

Casablanca
Inside the urban sprawl lies a charming whitewashed old-town, where faded art deco glories from the city’s day as a French protectorate sit alongside intricate Moorish architecture (including the largest Mosque outside Mecca). Casablanca’s citizens are also the most westernized and culturally progressive in the country.

Cascades d’Ouzoud
What could be more of an attraction in an arid, semi-desert country than roaring waterfalls plunging through a burst of greenery? The Cascades d'Ouzoud in the Central Atlas are Morocco’s largest and do just that, making them a popular stopping point between Marakech and Fez. Try the spring water here, so cold and refreshing you won’t want to leave.

Chefchaouen
This breathtaking old town, with a medina comprising painted blue houses scattered down a slope in the heart of the Rif Mountains, is one of Morocco’s prettiest. Having been claimed by Spain as part of Spanish Morocco in the 1920s, the architecture through its steep and winding cobbled streets is a unique blend of traditional Arabic and Andalusian.

Djemaa el Fna, Marrakech
Djemaa el Fna is the hub of life in Marrakech, and locals and tourists alike flock here to watch the daily spectacle unfold. As night falls the vast square comes alive as a thronging, open-air stage filled with acrobats, storytellers, snake-charmers and musicians, all perfumed with the smoke from a hundred food stalls. Unchanged for centuries this is surely one of the world’s ‘must see’ cultural wonders.

Draa Valley
The Draa Valley is a ribbon of fertile green, scattered with Berber villages and impressive casbahs, some built into the valleys rock walls. The valley is a wonderful place to explore, and never more spectacular than in the evenings, as the dipping sun sets fire to the red earth.

Essaouira
With its picture-postcard medina and fortress ramparts jutting into the sea, not to mention great seafood restaurants, boutique hotels and a charming souk, this historic, romantic, artistic seaside town on the coast west of Marrakech is a perennial favourite. The broad, blustery beach, perfect for world-class windsurfing, seals the deal.

Fez
Unravel the mystery of Fes, the refined ancient centre of sacred learning and imperial power. Labyrinthine streets are anchored by the soaring minarets of the Al-Qarawiyin and Al-Andalus mosques (not open to visitors) and centuries of history are captured at the Dar Batha Museum. Fez’s medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the largest, continuously populated medieval city in the Islamic world.

High Atlas Mountains
Explore the spectacular mountain range running nearly the full length of eastern Morocco, and challenge yourself with a trek to the summit of its highest peak, Jebel Toubkal, standing at 4,167m (13,667 ft). As your breath returns you’ll be rewarded by breathtaking views. The trip can be made in a day, but most trekkers take a leisurely three.

Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech
The antithesis of the Djemaa is the hidden oasis of Jardin Majorelle. These immaculately presented gardens were created in the 1920s by French artist Jacques Majorelle. Purchased and restored to former glory sixty years later by Yves Saint Laurent, today this haven of tranquility blossoms with rare botanical specimens; palms, cacti and bamboo, surrounding limpid ornamental pools heavy with water lilies.

Meknes and Volubilis
Although smaller and more relaxed than Marrakech and Fez, Morocco’s third imperial city is equal in charm. Improved in the 17th Century by Sultan Moulay Ismail, the city is easily navigated without a guide, and a showcase of Islamic architecture. Outside the town are the ruins of Volubilis, the largest site of Roman remains in North Africa, illustrating once again the cultural diversity and richness of Morocco’s history.

Rif Mountains
The fascinating and scenic range in the country’s north is the stronghold of the Berber people. Wonderful trekking opportunities avail, including through the fir forests in the Talassemtane National Park.

Sahara Desert
Witness the vast empty majesty of the Sahara from its western edges at Ouzina and Merzouga. Venture out across the shifting ocean of sand, trekking by camel to visit nomad settlements, oasis, and the mighty dunes of Erg Chebbi.

Tangiers
Head back to the decadent Bohemian days of Tangier in the Grand Socco and Petit Socco, where some of the 20th century's greatest writers, Beat poets, and rock stars like the Rolling Stones found inspiration while rubbing shoulders with tax-exiled aristocrats and international spies. Even today, this port-town’s raffish ‘ask no questions’ vibe still thrills.

The Souq, Marrakech
This legendary, bustling and chaotic bazaar is the city’s pulse, and entering its shadowy, vast canopy-covered labyrinth north of the Djemma el Fna always elicits a thrill. Everything from carpets to cardamom can be found in these twisting lanes - and remember, the haggling’s all part of the fun.

Todra and Dades Gorges
These stunning, red-cliffed sister canyons arguably offer some of Morocco’s most beautiful scener and are at their best in late spring and early summer when roses carpet the canyon floor. There’s also rock-climbing and white-water rafting activities available here, but most people simply come to loose themselves in the sublime surroundings.



Much thanks again to Emiel at Act of Traveling.  You can follow Emiel and all his adventures on Facebook and Twitter.

Don't forget to check back every Sunday for more great stories from traveling families around the world.


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