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Marrakech and Fez shopping
In the medinas of Morocco’s Marrakesh and Fez, business is still conducted like it has been for centuries and an integral of part of that is bargaining. While a way of life in many cultures where price tags are non existent, haggling can be intimidating for the uninitiated.
Marrakesh is hardcore and one of the worst places in Morocco to buy a carpet. It’s a tourist mecca, resulting in a higher price to fleecing ratio. But since most first time visitors go to Marrakesh during some point of their trip I’ll focus on it. It’s the extreme. If you can haggle successfully there you can haggle anywhere.
Upon entering any carpet shop you will be offered a warm welcome and asked a series of questions, disguised as small talk, which are used to calculate how high your starting price will be. The carpet merchant, like any good salesman, is qualifying your spending potential. Here are some of the typical questions and a translation of their underlying meaning:
Where are you from? If you are from North America, Japan, Western Europe, The U.K. and Australia the starting price will be higher.
Have you been to Morocco/Marrakesh before? If you say no, the price goes up.
How long have you been in Marrakesh? The less time the higher the price.
How long have you been in Morocco? Same as above.
Haggling is a dance that requires time, patience and humor. You can easily spend a few hours from start to finish buying a carpet. During this time a plethora will be deftly unfolded and placed before you on the floor. There will be mint tea to drink. After a significant array has been displayed the process of elimination begins. Naturally don’t be overly enthusiastic when you’ve found something you like. While carpets you have given the thumbs down to are taken away expect to hear, “ Tell me which one you like, you are my first customer of the day so I’ll give you a special price and it will bring me good luck,” and similar variations.
When the elimination is complete it’s time for the grand finale--the big price reveal of your potential purchase. An outrageously high figure will be quoted. Exasperation and anger will get you nowhere. Offer a fraction of that price, a quarter perhaps, but do so with humility. Your offer will be met like an insult, with incredulous looks and a song and dance about the fine quality of the workmanship, the woman who worked six months weaving and other psychological warfare ploys to tap your guilt vault. It’s all part of the game. Keep your poker face and cool and smile periodically while the dramatics continue. They will be followed by a better price, at which point you up your ante a bit. This process is repeated until a price is agreed.
If , however, you reach an impasse on price there is one last move. Thank the merchant for his time, the good tea, apologize for not being able to afford his goods and walk to the door. About 99% of the time he will come after you asking your “final” best price or lowering his.
The big question of course is what is a fair price? What you are willing to pay is the right price. Keep a figure in mind and stick to it. To get an idea of prices I suggest visiting government run artist cooperatives, which are typically listed in the usual suspects of guide books. They have fixed prices and the quality is consistently good but the prices will be higher than if you successfully bargain. And of course you miss out on the experience.
Top Bargaining Tips:
-During the initial screening don’t say you just got to town
-If you like something don’t show it
-Keep your cool no matter how hard
-Be polite
-Don’t let the guilt ploys tug at your purse strings
-If you are quoted an overly outrageous price come back with an outrageously low counter offer to give you some leverage
-Prepare to spend a few hours
-Check out artists cooperatives to get an idea of price
-Know what your budget is and don’t exceed it
-Finally, if you really don’t want to purchase something don’t no matter what dramatics ensue
It was the sight of about a dozen yellow-eyed speckled snakes surrounded by turbanned men swaying to the sound of cacophonous pipes and drums that brought me to a standstill in the bustling expanse of Jemaa el Fna square. For a moment I felt as if I'd been transported to another age, to some exotic place of intrigue and adventure – and that I wasn't simply a 21st-century traveller who'd just arrived on EasyJet.
The snake-owners were nomads, desert dwellers who have learnt to live with snakes – and, in towns, to use them to extract money from fascinated onlookers. Around them, life went on as it has done for centuries. Groups of men squatted around storytellers. Traditional water-sellers in garish red outfits hung with brass mugs shouted into the smoky night air. Laden donkeys trotted through the crowds, their owners exhorting people to make way. The scent of the oranges on sale mingled with the pungent smell of animals and smoke.
Being there, right then, felt like being on the set of a movie. But then, that is what Marrakech has become: a destination reeling out real and manufactured fantasies; part-ancient, part-Disney, where Africa meets Arabia, where fortune-tellers and open-air dentists live cheek-by-jowl in a seething stew of humanity with American heiresses, Italian fashion editors and busloads of tourists led by flag-waving guides.
In the 1950s and 60s, when Churchill brought Roosevelt here to take in the desert scenery, when James Stewart and Doris Day hung out at La Mamounia with Alfred Hitchcock, and when the Rolling Stones were photographed here by Cecil Beaton, this square and the surrounding souks were where local people came to meet and shop. Today, while locals still throng the streets, many of the souk's stalls are clearly designed for foreigners.
The snake-owners were nomads, desert dwellers who have learnt to live with snakes – and, in towns, to use them to extract money from fascinated onlookers. Around them, life went on as it has done for centuries. Groups of men squatted around storytellers. Traditional water-sellers in garish red outfits hung with brass mugs shouted into the smoky night air. Laden donkeys trotted through the crowds, their owners exhorting people to make way. The scent of the oranges on sale mingled with the pungent smell of animals and smoke.
Being there, right then, felt like being on the set of a movie. But then, that is what Marrakech has become: a destination reeling out real and manufactured fantasies; part-ancient, part-Disney, where Africa meets Arabia, where fortune-tellers and open-air dentists live cheek-by-jowl in a seething stew of humanity with American heiresses, Italian fashion editors and busloads of tourists led by flag-waving guides.
In the 1950s and 60s, when Churchill brought Roosevelt here to take in the desert scenery, when James Stewart and Doris Day hung out at La Mamounia with Alfred Hitchcock, and when the Rolling Stones were photographed here by Cecil Beaton, this square and the surrounding souks were where local people came to meet and shop. Today, while locals still throng the streets, many of the souk's stalls are clearly designed for foreigners.
The Moroccan Urban Carpets love affair with carpets
The Moroccan Urban Carpets love affair with carpets
Urban Carpets, Carpets creator
The contemporary carpets creator URBAN CARPETS allows you to discover its high quality collection, designed by Sylvie PRENANT. Thanks to our products, you will be able to decorate your house and make your grounds come alive.
Moroccan carpets are the height of fashion right now and because of their beauty, versatility, and compatability with almost any interior, they are appearing in beautiful homes, hotels and interior and design magazines the world over.
Moroccans and riad owners have always had a long standing love of carpets. Carpets are cherished items, which are meticulously cared for. They are investment pieces that ground rooms and provide them with the basis for the palette of their decor. A beautiful carpet is indeed the foundation of riad interior design, not to mention artwork for a floor. Everything works off their vibe. Accordingly, here they are considered one of the most important furnishing of all.
Moroccan carpets therefore don't just serve a practical function in riads, they ultimately enhance the living space.
Carpets and rugs vary greatly in design and colouring from region to region.
There are two distinct types of carpets in Morocco: urban Islamic carpets and rural tribal carpets.
Rabat is the historic centre of the Moroccan urban Islamic carpet making tradition and its pile weave carpets are referred to as Rabat, or R'bati carpets. They are formal in style, and much more sophisticated, with extremely diverse coloration. It is not uncommon for them to require months of painstaking work to complete.
Urban carpet making in Rabat can be traced back to the 18th century, and was greatly influenced and inspired by formal styles and techniques from neigbouring Mediterranean countries and the Middle East from where there was always a marked cultural exchange.
For Moroccans, urban carpets are utilitarian as much as works of art.
Urban carpets tend to be thicker and have larger borders than rural tribal carpets. Their designs, like any Islamic art form, consist of stylized geometric patterns. These are centred upon a central motif that works its way to a highly detailed border, which echoes the central motif - like in the above photo. One of the most striking features to them are their rich yarns and lustrous colours.
The other type of carpets are rural tribal carpets, which are produced by the hundreds of different ethnic tribal groups, of mainly Berber origin, scattered across Morocco.
Tribal carpet making pre-dates the urban tradition. It is considerably older in fact and is, interestingly, centred predominantly upon less formal, pre-Islamic designs and styles.
Berbers historically, were insular by nature and their carpet making was not influenced by the outside world. Traditionally carpets were made for simply personal and domestic use by women for their own families, who passed weaving techniques down through the generations. The designs and techniques they employed were therefore a remarkable and authentic expression of their unique culture – as they still are today.
Carpets are normally used as bedding, floor coverings or blankets. They are flat-woven, though some are pile rugs, and their designs feature abstract expressive and individual imagery often reflecting superstitious and spiritual beliefs such as wards against the evil eye. For example, wedding blankets are thought to be filled with baraka, or divine blessings, and their mass of sequins supposedly ward off the malevolence that brides are believed to be vulnerable to.
The colouring is more natural than in Rabat rugs and the most sought after carpets have little repetition of design.
Undoubtedly my favourite carpets come from the Beni Ouarain - who are an important Berber tribe from the Middle Atlas mountain region.
The main characteristic of a Beni Ouarain carpet is the shaggy pile - (as above).
Beni Ouarain carpets are all hand loomed in lovely soft bouncy wool shorn from sheep rather than wool removed from a sheepskin. It means they are especially warm and comfortable under foot.
Each carpet is a unique organic piece and highly collectible. No two are ever alike.
Somehow they never fail to compliment and enhance space, and I simply love the creamy golden beige shaggy piles I have in our Marrakech home – that function so nicely on the cold tadelakt flooring. Their zigzag and lozenge designs are particularly cool.
When it comes to buying a carpet, you should inquire about knot density and both the type of dye and fiber used. Better quality carpets have a higher number of knots per square meter, are handmade and constructed from 100% wool or 100% nylon.
Cheaper carpets made of, for example, olefin, are readily available, but these carpets are highly flammable (moving a chair across the carpet can even create scorch marks), they attract more dirt and gray over time. It is also worth noting that synthetic dyes produce bolder colors, but are more likely to fade over time, whereas natural dyes produce lighter long lasting colors.
Chic Marrakech are happy to recommend some reputable carpets dealers.
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