The best new holidays in Morocco

The best new holidays in Morocco
From luxury desert camps and riad hotels to Atlas mountains walks and cooking lessons in the souks of Marrakech, we round up the best new holidays in Morocco

Camping

Nomadic beach retreat, Atlantic coast
A new trip combines the best elements of different holidays – a pinch of city break, a dash of fitness retreat, a soupcon of beach-bumming – to make a very appealing one. It begins and ends in a boutique riad in Marrakech, with spa treatments and delicious dinners. There's time for lunch in Essaouira and a night in a coastal village villa before the retreat begins in earnest. Each day, early-morning meditation is followed by four hours of walking along secluded beaches, then a luxury camp is set up while you enjoy an afternoon of yoga, reiki, swimming and sunbathing. Drinks are served at sunset and dinner is eaten around the campfire to the sound of tribal singing. The camp moves along the coast each day, with camels carrying everything – and you, if you get tired.
• £1,150pp for seven days including two nights at a riad, one at a villa and three at a luxury beach camp, all food and drink, hammam, scrubs and massages; and five days of reiki, yoga and meditation. The first trip starts 5 July, +212 6 6121 5062,

Scarabeo Camp, Agafay
Camp Bling (camp-bling.com) is a new website bringing together the most luxurious campsites around the world – it's not just glamping, it's camp-bling, geddit? There are floating lodges in Cambodia, a luxury Galapagos safari site, a New Zealand campsite only accessible by helicopter, and now Scarabeo Camp, a nomadic encampment in Morocco. Eventually there will be four bivouacs across the country but the first to open is the Stone Camp, based in the desert of Agafay, around 40km from Marrakech. The camp moves location according to the season, but there are always views of the desert and the Atlas mountains beyond. Fresh bread is baked daily in a traditional earth oven.
• From €155 half-board for two people in a luxury tent
Sahara Safari Camp, Draa Valley
A new luxury tented wilderness camp, Sahara Safari Camp, opened in February near Zagora and Tagounite, south Morocco, and has now added some budget tents. They still contain proper beds and duvets, and each one has a private bathroom tent a few metres away. The camp has excellent eco credentials: bio-loos, solar lighting, local produce and partnerships with the tribal community to help minimise impact on the land.
• From £30pp pn for two people and a budget tent, including dinner and soft drinks, specialist

Hotels and riads


The Sirayane hotel in Marrakech
Marrakech
New ones to watch include the Sirayane hotel (doubles from around £120 a night, uk.sirayane.com), in the newly-hip area of Hivernage and the Route D'Amizmiz, designed in a simple style by architect Imaad Rahmouni, with an outdoor swimming pool facing the mountains and a small but stylish spa, plus an hourly free shuttle bus into the medina, around 10 minutes away. The Selman Marrakech (opening offer: around £290 B&B a night, selman-marrakech.com), a glamourous country club-style estate which opened this month, is owned and run by a Moroccan family and home to 16 Arabian horses. Ten are thoroughbreds and not for riding – they're more of a living art installation, roaming the 15-acre grounds – but the remaining six horses can be hired for trekking.

L'iglesia, El Jadida
Boutique Souk, the Morocco travel concierge service, is launching a new property in El Jadida this month. L'iglesia is a converted 16th-century Spanish church, now decorated in a 1940s/50s style, overlooking the sea. A separate wing of the property is housed in the old US consulate, which dates from the period of Portuguese occupation. El Jadida is a relaxed port town on the Atlantic coast, 60 miles south of Casablanca, with long beaches and a Unesco-recognised old town.
• From around £98 a room,
Number Thirty, Essaouira
This quirky townhouse, billed as "Essaouira meets Brighton", is ideal for self-caterers who are looking for something a little different. There are plain walls, splashes of bright colour and retro fabrics – and not a traditional rug or tile in sight. It's in a quiet street in central Essaouira, an easy walk from the beach and restaurants, and has a roof terrace for sunbathing.
• From £100 a night, sleeps six, book through

Temple des Arts, Ouarzazate
Ouarzazate, a Berber city in south‑central Morocco, is a good base for expeditions into the Drâa Valley and the Sahara. The Temple des Artes, a seven-room luxury guesthouse, opened there last year. It is owned by a Moroccan film producer and is a celebration of cinema, with movie-themed suites and brilliantly ostentatious decor. The Atlas Film Studios, among the largest movie studios in the world, are just five miles down the road. They are well worth a visit for the strange site of old movie sets decaying under the desert sun.
• From around £105 a night
Chez Max, Tagadert
This new earth house has been built in the Berber hamlet style, around central courtyards, in a sleepy village near Marrakech. There are six airy rooms and plenty of nooks and crannies, terraces and balconies for reading and relaxing, plus gardens and a swimming pool, and staff to do all the cooking.
• Five nights from £672pp B&B, including flights from London,

Activities

Walking week, Bougmez Valley
KE Adventure Travel has a new easy walking holiday in the Bougmez Valley, a lesser-trodden area of the Atlas mountains. The trip is based at the Touda Ecolodge in the village of Zawyat Oulmzi. Daily guided walks may take you to Lake Izourar in an ancient glacial valley, Ait Ourit, a peak with magnificent views, or to the market town of Tabant.
• £545 for eight days, excludes flights but includes transfers from Marrakech and all meals, departures 1 July, 9 September and 21 October.
History walk, Atlas mountains
Walks Worldwide's new Morocco trip, Raiders of the Lost Kasbah, follows the old caravan trade route across the Tizi n'Telouet pass, stopping at famous fortresses and fortified towns. Accommodation is mainly basic hostels with a night's camping, plus a couple of nights in a three-star in Marrakech.
• Eight days from £475pp, excluding flight

Horse riding, Diabat
Explore the deserted beaches, fishing villages and argan forests south of Essaouira on horseback. You'll ride alongside goat herders, spot turtles and visit argan oil producers. Three nights are spent in a boutique hotel and three in a Berber tent, and the trip is suitable for all levels of experience.
• Seven days from £780pp, excluding flights

Family holiday, multi-location
Time in Fes and Marrakech will appeal to the grown-ups on this new family holiday, while kids will be happiest in the mountains searching for Barbary apes, discovering dinosaur footprints, playing traditional Berber games and camping under the stars. Accommodation is a mix of hotels, village houses and basic tents.
• 15 days from £799 adults and £732 children excluding flights,

The cuisine of Morocco

The cuisine of Morocco is rated among the best in the world, and rightly so. There are few places where food is more carefully and artistically prepared, more delightfully served, and more enjoyed than in this country.

Cooking in Morocco falls into two specific categories. The first, intended for important guests, is the work of skilled chefs. It requires such intensive supervision that the host does not participate. He merely oversees the banquet with his sons and servants. No women are present. The men squat on mattresses or pillows around low, beautifully inlaid tables. A silver ewer of perfumed water is taken around and poured over three fingers of the right hand of each guest.

The host claps his hands and the meal begins. One course after another- each delicacy is served until Chban- complete satiation- is achieved. Again the silver ewer filled with warm water is presented to clean the mouth, lips, and hands. The meal is a feast for the gods and indeed it begins and ends with Bsmillah--God's blessing.

In the second category of cookery are the wonderful dishes prepared with loving care by the mistresses- Dadas- of the homes. Here, where time does not seem to count, she spends hours with her glazed earthenware and copper cooking dishes and her kanoun, the movable clay brazier. Her kitchen is austere, and the charcoal which perfumes the kebabs and allows the sauces to simmer is the only source of heat. There are no chairs. A folded carpet serves as a seat. The Dada is dressed in a long colorful robe tucked up in front and her wide sleeves are held in place with a twisted cord.

The scents of coriander, cumin, saffron, marjoram, and onion mingle with the pungency of olive oil and the sweetness of sandalwood, mint, and roses, delighting the senses.

How a Dinner is Served in Morocco

A hostess in Morocco might take a week to prepare a suitable dinner for her honored guests. The meal often consists of as many as fifty courses. It would take a full day just to make Bstilla- a crisp pastry, rolled as thin as tissue paper, filled with chicken in a mixture "sweet and peppery, soft and violent."

The dinner starts with Bstilla, followed by the typical brochette or kebab flavored with bits of beef or lamb fat. Next comes the Tajine, chicken or meat in a spicy stew which has been simmered for many hours, and it is served with a flat bread called Khubz.

In Morocco, as in most Arab lands, every household makes its own bread. It is made from semolina flour without shortening or milk. An invocation to God is made before commencing the sacred act of kneading. When the bread has been properly shaped, each family puts its own mark or stamp on it before sending it via the children to a common bakery oven. After the Tajine, a Batinjaan- eggplant salad or chopped tomato salad- is served as a separate course. Then comes Couscous, that marvelous Moroccan national dish made of semolina, cooked to perfection, each grain separate from the other. The dinner is completed with slices or wedges of peeled melon, pastries made with honey and almond like the Middle Eastern Baklava, and finally a small glass of mint tea. The dinner following is a very much simplified version, but it is delicious and will give you the "feel" of Morocco. Once you have made the Couscous, it may very well become one of your favorite dishes. This is a delightful dinner to prepare and serve.

How You Can Present a Moroccan Dinner

If feasible, use a low table with cushions on the floor. (Be sure to advise your guests to dress comfortably.) Cover the low table with a bright brocaded cloth and provide your guests with thick towels to cover their knees. You might want to place floral bouquets around the room, but do not have a centerpiece on the table.

Before serving the dinner, walk around the table with an attractive pitcher (silver if possible) filled with warm water which has been scented with cologne or a few drops of perfume. Carry a Turkish towel over your left arm and a small basin in your left hand. Pour a little water over the fingers of each guest, catching the water in the small basin.

Serve tiny kebabs first (with or without a fork) on small plates. As soon as the kebabs have been eaten, remove the plates. The salad may be served as a separate course or may accompany the Couscous. If you serve it separately place the salad (with a fork) in front of each guest. In Morocco, the Couscous is served in a large platter and each guest eats directly from it with a large spoon or he may roll the Couscous up in little balls and pop them into his mouth, but don't expect your guests to do this. You may prefer to place extra plates in front of your guests and ask them to serve themselves.

Slices of melon, watermelon, or cantaloupe speared with toothpicks (no plates) are served in a platter right after the Couscous. You might also serve the mint tea at this time, or wait until later to serve it with the honey pastries.

Again the hostess pours water over the fingers of her guests. This is a mark of graciousness and hospitality. At the end of the meal, after tea has been served, bring in a tiny incense burner and light it on the table.

Menu from Morocco

KEBAB KOUTBANE
Tiny Beef Kebabs in a Moorish Marinade
COUSCOUS MARRAKESH
Semolina Grain with Lamb and Chicken
BATINJAAN ZALUD
Salad Made with Eggplant
MELON A LA MOROCAINE
HONEY PASTRIES
MOROCCAN MINT TEA
Shopping List for Eight

Meat and Poultry

1 Ib. filet mignon or beef steak
1/2 Ib. beef fat (suet)
2 1/2 Ibs. boneless lamb
1 3-lb. chicken
Groceries

1/2 pint olive oil
1/2 pint peanut oil
1 small can black olives
2-oz. jar dried mint leaves
1 box loose tea
1 Ib. sugar
1 # 2 1/2 can chick peas (or ceci beans)
1 pkg. black raisins
Fruits and Vegetables

2 Ibs. onions
1 bunch carrots
2 large green peppers
1 Ib. yellow squash
1 pkg. frozen string beans or peas
2 large eggplants
2 Ibs. tomatoes
2 seasonal melons or 1 watermelon
1 bunch parsley
2 lemons
Special Purchases

In a Middle Eastern or gourmet shop:
1 Ib. couscous
all condiments and spices
honey pastries such as Baklava
Incense
In a Japanese or hardware store:
6-inch bamboo or metal skewers
Optional- cous-cousiere, available House of Yemen (see page 232).
Recipes

KEBAB KOUTBANE

Appetizer Kebabs in a Moorish Marinade
Yield: 8 6-inch kebabs
This typically Moroccan dish is an excellent hors d'oeuvre to serve at any time. It is amazing how the small cubes of suet improve the flavor of the kebab after some of the fat has burned off. The use of suet is particularly effective when cooking kebabs over a charcoal fire and may be successfully substituted in recipes calling for bacon.

Cut 1 Ib. FILLET OF BEEF OR STEAK into 3/4-inch cubes (approximately 32 cubes).

Cut 1/2 Ib. BEEF SUET into 1/2-inch cubes.

In an 8 x 10-inch shallow baking dish, prepare the Moorish Marinade:

Combine: 1/4 cup ONION, finely chopped and

2 Tbs. PARSLEY, finely chopped.
Blend: 1/2 cup OLIVE or SALAD OIL

1 tsp. SALT
1/4 tsp. PEPPER
1/4 tsp. GARLIC POWDER
1 tsp. GROUND CORIANDER (optional)
1/2 tsp. GROUND CUMIN (optional).
Blend the beef and suet cubes with the marinade and allow the mixture to marinate for several hours.

Thread four pieces of beef alternately with three pieces of suet (start and end with beef) on a 6-inch metal or bamboo skewer.

Grill or Broil using a hot fire, basting occasionally with the marinade.

Arrange 1 KEBAB KOUTBANE on a small plate.

Garnish with TOMATO SLICES and PARSLEY SPRIGS at the side of the plate.

COUSCOUS MARRAKESH

Yield: 8 portions
A couscousiere is a large double boiler with holes in the bottom of the upper pot allowing its contents to steam. A couscousiere may be improvised by lining a metal colander with cheese cloth and placing the colander in a 6- or 8-quart pot so that the handles rest on the rim. A piece of heavy- duty foil can serve as a lid.

Moisten: 1 Ib. COUSCOUS in a 3 quart bowl with

1 cup COLD WATER to which
1 Tbs. SALT has been added.
Stir up with a fork and allow to stand 10 minutes to swell.

Spread the Couscous out in a colander lined with cheese cloth (or in the top of a couscousiere).

Place the colander over a pan which fits it and is half filled with water.

Cover with aluminum foil and allow to steam for 10 minutes.

In a 6-quart kettle (or bottom of couscousiere):

Saute: 1 cup ONIONS coarsely chopped with

1 tsp. CORIANDER (powdered)
1 Tbs. SALT
1 tsp. CRUSHED RED PEPPER
1/2 tsp. SAFFRON
1 tsp. POWDERED CUMIN SEED in
1/4 cup PEANUT OIL until soft but not brown.
Add: 2 1/2 Ibs. BONELESS LAMB cut in 2 inch chunks and

2 quarts WATER.
Fit the colander (or top of couscousiere) with the Couscous over the meat, cover it with foil, and allow mixture to simmer gently for 30 minutes.

Add 1 3-lb. CHICKEN cut into 8 pieces to the stew and continue cooking for 30 minutes longer.

Stir the Couscous from time to time to make sure the grains are separated.

Add to Stew: 1 Ib. CARROTS, scraped and cut in 1-inch chunks

2 GREEN PEPPERS, cut in 1/2-inch strips
1 Ib. FRESH TOMATOES, cut in 1-inch wedges
1 Ib. YELLOW SQUASH, peeled and cut in 2-inch slices
12 oz. FROZEN STRING BEANS (regular cut) or PEAS
1 # 2 1/2 can CHICK PEAS, drained
1/2 Ib. BLACK RAISINS.
Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Cook for about 15 minutes or until vegetables are soft but still slightly crisp.

Pour the Couscous into a large (15- to 18 inch) round serving platter.

Make a large hole in the center, pushing the Couscous to the edge of platter.

Arrange meat and vegetables attractively in center, pouring the sauce over all.

Garnish with PARSLEY SPRIGS.

BATINJAAN ZALUD

Eggplant Salad
Yield: 8 small salads
This Eggplant Salad may also be served as an appetizer. It is an excellent accompaniment to a Couscous, as it is to any of the great entrees of Morocco. Be sure that the salad is very cold when served.

Peel 1 or 2 large EGGPLANTS (approx. 2 Ibs.).

Cut into 1-inch slices.

In a 10-inch skillet:

Fry in 1/2 cup OLIVE or SALAD OIL until soft.

Mash the eggplant.

Add: 1/4 cup ONION finely chopped

3 cloves GARLIC finely chopped (or 1 tsp. garlic powder)
4 Tbs. LEMON JUICE
1 tsp. SALT
1/4 tsp. GROUND PEPPER
1 Tbs. SUGAR, and blend thoroughly.
Chill in refrigerator.

Heap 1/2 cup EGGPLANT MIXTURE on a 6- to 7-inch plate.

Mash it down to form a circle within 1 inch of edge of plate.

Dribble with 1/2 tsp. OLIVE OIL (if mixture appears dry).

Place:

1 slice TOMATO in center of circle and
1 BLACK OLIVE in center of tomato.
Garnish with PARSLEY SPRIGS.

MINT TEA

Yield: 8 servings
Into a 6 cup glass or china teapot:

Pour boiling water, rinse and throw the water away.

Put in: 3 heaping Tbs. OOLONG TEA (do not use teabags)

2 heaping Tbs. DRIED MINT LEAVES
1/2 cup SUGAR.
Fill the teapot to the brim with BOILING WATER.

Allow to steep covered for 5 minutes.

Stir up the infusion and taste the liquid to see if it is sweet enough.

Strain into juice glasses (5 to 6 oz.).

Note: Prepare second infusion while the guests are enjoying the first. Add 1 tsp. tea, 1 tsp. mint and 2 Tbs. sugar to the pot. Add boiling water to allow to steep for 5 minutes. Stir again. Taste for sweetness. Strain to serve.

MOROCCAN COCONUT CAKES

Yield: 1 1/2 Ibs. coconut fudge
You may want to make Moroccan Coconut Cakes, a delicious sweetmeat much like coconut fudge. They are easy to make and ideal to serve later in the evening after the Moroccan dinner.

In a 2-quart saucepan:

Combine: 2 cups GRATED COCONUT (moist, canned or fresh)

3/4 cup EVAPORATED MILK
2 cups SUGAR
Simmer gently to 238' or until a soft ball is formed in cold water.

Add: 1 oz. BUTTER and

2 Tbs. LEMON RIND.
Cool to room temperature in the pan.

Beat as you would fudge until thick and glossy.

Pour into a square (8 x 8-inch) pan lined with wax paper.

Chill and cut into 1-inch squares.

HONEY PASTRIES

Purchase small honey pastries in any Middle Eastern food shop. Ask for Baklava. In Morocco it is called Kab El Ghzal.

Allow one or two pastries per guest.

Place them on a platter lined with a paper doily.

Serve them on dessert plates with forks.

MELON A LA MOROCAINE

Use any melon in season or watermelon but be certain that it is very ripe.

Cut the melon into 1/2-inch slices and remove the rind.

Cut again into 3 inch pieces and arrange them attractively on a platter.

Garnish the platter with sprigs of fresh mint or parsley.

Spear the melon pieces with colored toothpicks.

Pass the platter to your guests. No dishes are used with this course.

PEASANT PANCAKES

Yield: 8 servings
Here's another outstanding sweet of Morocco which you might want to serve instead of the honey pastries.

In a 1-pint bowl:

Cut 4 BANANAS (peeled) in 1/2 inch slices.

Add 1/2 cup APRICOT LIQUEUR and marinate for 1/2 hour.

In a 1-quart bowl:

Place 1 cup PANCAKE MIX following package directions to make a thick pancake batter using the above liqueur drained from the bananas as part of the liquid.

Add bananas to the batter and stir thoroughly.

In a 9-inch skillet:

Heat 1/4 inch COOKING OIL.

Drop the mixture by tablespoonfuls (2 or 3 pieces of banana in each spoon) into the hot fat until golden brown on both sides.

In a 1-pint bowl:

Combine: 1/2 cup SOFT BREAD CRUMBS made by grating fresh bread

3 Tbs. MELTED BUTTER
4 Tbs. SUGAR
1 tsp. GROUND GINGER.
Place 3 or 4 PEASANT PANCAKES on dessert plates.

Sprinkle 1 to 2 Tbs. CRUMB MIXTURE over the pancakes.

MEALTIME CUSTOMS

MEALTIME CUSTOMS

Moroccans eat their meals at low round tables, sitting on cushions on the floor. They eat with their hands instead of silverware, using the thumb and first two fingers of their right hands. They also use pieces of bread to soak up sauces and carry food to the mouth. Small warmed, damp towels are passed around before the meal to make sure everyone's hands are clean. Most meals consist of a single main dish, often a stew, a couscous dish, or a hearty soup. It is served with bread, salad, cold vegetables, and couscous or rice on the side. A typical breakfast might include beyssara (dried fava beans stewed with cumin and paprika), beghrir (pancakes), and bread. Two breakfast favorites that may sound exotic to Westerners are lambs' heads and calves' feet .

Although Moroccans love sweets, they are usually saved for special occasions. With everyday meals, the most common dessert is fresh fruit.

The sweetened mint tea that comes with every meal is served a special way. It is brewed in a silver teapot and served in small glasses. When the tea is poured, the pot is held high above the glasses to let air mix with the tea. Tea is served not only at home but also in public places. In stores, merchants often offer tea to their customers.

Morocco is famous for the wide range of delicious foods sold by its many street vendors. These include soup, shish kebab, roasted chickpeas, and salads. Both full meals and light snacks are sold. A favorite purchase is sugared doughnuts tied together on a string to carry home.

Chickpea, Feta, and Olive Salad

Ingredients for salad

2 cans (15-ounce each) chickpeas, drained and rinsed

5 ounces feta cheese, cut into cubes

8 ounces cherry or grape tomatoes

2 ounces pitted black olives

4 Tablespoons flat leaf parsley

Lettuce or other salad greens

Ingredients for dressing

5 Tablespoons olive oil

1 Tablespoon lemon juice

1 clove garlic, crushed

Salt, to taste

Procedure

Place the chickpeas in a bowl and add the feta cheese cubes.

Cut the tomatoes in half if necessary, to make them bite-sized.

Add tomatoes to the chickpeas and feta cheese mixture. Add the black olives, parsley, and lettuce.

Combine dressing ingredients in a small bowl.

Pour over chickpea mixture, toss gently, and chill.

Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Serves 8.

Moroccan "String of Doughnuts"

Ingredients

One box doughnuts (may be regular or "mini" size)

Clean heavy string (such as kitchen twine)

Large safety pin

Procedure

Cut several 2-foot pieces of string.

Tie the safety pin to the end of the string.

Using the safety pin as a "needle," thread the string through the center holes of 3 or 4 doughnuts.

Remove the safety pin and tie the ends of the string together.

Repeat, making several strings of donuts to share as a snack with friends.

Mhalbi

Ingredients

⅓ cup cornstarch

3 cups milk

¼ cup sugar

1 cinnamon stick

½ cup almond, finely chopped

2 Tablespoons orange flower water (optional)

Procedure

In a small bowl, dilute the cornstarch with ½ cup of the milk. Set aside.

In a heavy, medium saucepan, bring the remaining 2½ cups milk, sugar, and cinnamon stick to a boil.

Add the cornstarch mixture.

Whisk continuously until the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes.

Remove from the heat and remove the cinnamon stick.

Optional: stir in the orange flower water. Pour into 5 dessert bowls and let cool.

Sprinkle with the chopped almonds. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Serves 5.

Sweet Grated Carrot Salad

Ingredients

4 to 6 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley

¼ teaspoon cinnamon, ground

1½ teaspoons confectioners' sugar

Juice of 2 oranges

1¾ pounds carrots, grated

Procedure

Mix the chopped parsley with the cinnamon, sugar, and orange juice in a salad bowl.

Add the grated carrots and mix well.

Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve slightly chilled.

Serves 10 to 12.

6 POLITICS, ECONOMICS, AND NUTRITION

According to a report by the World Bank, about 5 percent of the total population of Morocco are undernourished, and 58 percent of the total population have access to adequate sanitation (clean, sanitary toilet facilities). Some Moroccan children do not receive adequate nutrition. Ten percent of children under five are underweight for their age, while 24 percent are short for their age. Both of these statistics reflect poor nutrition for the youngest children in Morocco.

7 FURTHER STUDY

Books

Davidson, Alan. The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999.

Helou, Anissa. Café Morocco. Chicago: Contemporary Books. 1999.

Mackley, Lesley. The Book of North African Cooking. New York: HP Books, 1998.

Morse, Kitty. North Africa: The Vegetarian Table. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1996.

Seward, Pat. Cultures of the World: Morocco. New York: Marshall Cavendish, 1995.

Walden, Hilaire. North African Cooking. Edison, N.J.: Chartwell, 1995.

Webb, Lois Sinaiko. Holidays of the World Cookbook for Students. Phoenix: Oryx Press, 1995.